Cruising Canada’s Rideau Canal on Kawartha Voyageur
By Judi Cohen
With only a handful of cruise lines operating in Canada due to COVID restrictions, I was on a mission to cruise on every small ship in the Province of Ontario, close to home in Toronto.
Cruising aboard Ontario Waterway Cruises’ Kawartha Voyageur was my third small-ship adventure in Ontario in a single month during the summer of 2021.
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I welcomed the opportunity to cruise the full length of the UNESCO World Heritage designated Rideau Canal system from Kingston to Ottawa, passing through 39 of its historic locks along the way. In total, according to Parks Canada, there are 47 locks in 23 lockstations; 45 locks on the main route, plus two locks that link the Tay Canal and the Rideau.
Cruising the pretty locks of Canada’s Rideau Canal. * Photo: Ontario Waterway Cruises
The Rideau Canal is an inland waterway between the Canadian capital of Ottawa and Lake Ontario, at Kingston. Completed in 1832 and today one of the oldest continuously operated canal systems in North America, the waterway spans some 125 miles (200km) and utilizes parts of the Rideau and Cataraqui rivers as well as a series of lakes, including Upper Rideau Lake.
Complementing the appealing scenery of the Rideau Canal was the affable crew.
The crew on the Kawartha Voyageur worked together as a team providing “cottage-like” friendly service while sharing their knowledge about the locks and the small towns we visited each day always with a smile.
For the accommodating crew, nothing was too much trouble!
So here’s my story about cruising Canada’s Rideau Canal aboard the intimate Kawartha Voyageur with just 34 passengers, including myself and my sister-in-law, Marla.
The charming 45-pax Kawartha Voyageur. * Photo: Judi Cohen
The Kawartha Voyageur
The 45-passenger Kawartha Voyageur, owned by Ontario Waterway Cruises Inc, was built in 1982, expanded in 1995 and again in 2000.
Since its inception, the Ackert family of Ontario Canada has owned and operated the one-ship cruise line.
A very proud Marc Ackert captained the boat for our cruise on Canada’s Rideau Canal. He and his brother John take turns at the helm.
Captain Marc at the helm. * Photo: Judi Cohen
RELATED: Read Ted’s account of his Kawartha Voyageur cruise back in 1997!
A Look Around the Main Deck
The ship has three passenger decks. All the cabins are on the Main Deck, with 22 doubles (including one larger cabin) and one single. All have windows that open at the top with screens.
Every cabin has a toilet and sink, with a curtain separating them from the bedroom area. (Yes, no door!)
Cozy Kawartha cabin. * Photo: Ontario Waterway Cruises
Four showers on the Main Deck aft are shared by all guests. When I was confirming this cruise with Joy from the Ackert family, she told me to bring a bath robe for walking in the hall to and from the showers.
I was a little concerned about sharing a shower in the era of COVID, however, we found the shower stalls clean every time with ample supplies of body wash, bath mats and fluffy white towels.
Also accessed from the Main Deck is the hinged bow with seating to enjoy a waterline view.
The blue bow area is a great place to perch. * Photo: Judi Cohen
What’s What on the Upper Deck
The dining room and lounge (with a small library) are on the Upper Deck.
An elevator and stairs connect the Main and Upper decks, while stairs are the only option for reaching the Sun Deck.
Dining
Configured with tables of eight, a tasteful table-top wood and glass screens created separation for two guests in each area to meet the ever-changing provincial COVID restrictions in the dining room. Sunlight filled the room during our mealtimes.
Judi in the sunny dining room. * Photo: Marla
Scrumptious blueberry pancakes. * Photo: Judi Cohen
A menu for each meal was placed on our table. While there was only one main course for lunch and dinner, we always had a choice of salad or soup to start, and a dessert at each meal.
Fresh salads! * Photo: Judi Cohen
We were always asked if they could bring us second helpings of just about everything on the menu.
Now, the menu wasn’t comprised of haute cuisine, but rather home-cooked meals with local ingredients made with love.
All of the breads, cakes and cookies were baked on the ship.
In addition to three meals, we were offered snacks three times a day, including carrot cake and ice cream. Needless to say, we were never hungry!
Homemade carrot cake in the works! * Photo: Judi Cohen
The Lounge
Comfortable seating was located around the lounge and along the windows providing a panoramic view as we cruised. In one corner was a small library area. The lounge was well-used by passengers who wanted to read, do needlepoint and chit-chat to each other during the day and in the evening.
A Tour of the Sun Deck
A moveable sunroof over about half of the top deck provided a comfortable space to enjoy cruising along the canal with loads of tables and chairs.
Judi & Marla chilling on deck. * Photo: Judi Cohen
Kawartha’s top deck. * Photo: Ontario Waterway Cruises
When we passed under low bridges, Captain Marc announced that we had to remain seated, and at times the roof was lowered.
Weather-permitting, fresh water and snacks were served up top.
It was fascinating to see how the captain’s quarters on this deck could be lowered when passing under some bridges.
Just like the video shows below, Captain Marc popped open a roof hatch, poked his head out and drove the ship perfectly until we were clear of the overhead bridge structure.
What the Other Passengers Were Like
All but two passengers, who hailed from Quebec, were Ontarians.
Marla and I were the youngest in our mid-60’s.
Judi & Marla on deck.
We were two of only seven first-time cruisers with Ontario Waterway Cruises, the remainder have taken at least 10 previous cruises, and for some this was their 25th time!
The company reports some 50% of its passengers are repeaters.
It felt like we were one big family as we got to know each other at mealtimes and on the outdoor decks. Passengers shared stories about their many adventures with Ontario Waterway Cruises and how it felt like “coming home” on the Kawartha Voyageur.
A family vibe permeates Kawartha Voyageur. * Photo: Ontario Waterway Cruises
I met many retired engineers and business executives, accomplished writers and doctors, most of whom knew each other from previous cruises.
During a normal, non-COVID season, many of the repeat passengers would have been from the United States and other parts of Canada.
Passengers gather in the dining room for an info session. * Photo: Judi Cohen
Here’s the Skinny on our Cabin
We called Cabin 18 on the Main Deck our small yet cozy home for five nights cruising Canada’s Rideau Canal. It took a day or two to get comfortable with the lack of privacy while using the toilet that was separated from the sleeping area with just a curtain.
There are also two public toilets on the ship that for use at any time. The four shower rooms shared by all passengers, had shampoo, conditioner, body soap, and plenty of towels.
Our cabin had comfortable twin beds that were very close to each other. Summer camp for adults!
The cabin was so tiny that only one of us could get dressed next to our beds at a time, and this created many laughs each day!
Standing room only in Judi’s cabin! * Photo: Judi Cohen
I did not bring much baggage, just one soft bag. Everything found its place in the shelving, on large hooks and in a mirrored storage cabinet above the sink.
It was nice to have a window that opened with a screen so we could see out while we were laying down. Hand soap, makeup remover pads and towels were provided in the cabin.
Our Itinerary for Kawartha Voyageur — 5 nights, 6 days from Kingston to Ottawa
During our slow journey from Kingston to Ottawa we cruised through 39 of the 47 locks on the Rideau Canal and travelled a total of 202 kilometres (124 miles).
The 5-night Rideau Canal itinerary cruises between Kingston & Ottawa, traveling about 125 miles.
Only three of the locks were automated — one at Smiths Falls, one at Newboro and one at Black Rapids — and so watching lock crews cranking open the lock doors the old fashioned way was part of the fun.
We disembarked at the Hartwell Lock in Ottawa. As such we did not go through the two locks at Hartwell and the eight locks at the parliament.
Along the way cruising Canada’s Rideau Canal, we were able to walk along the footpaths beside the locks.
Walking along Canada’s Rideau Canal to watch Kawartha Voyageur glide past. * Photo: Judi Cohen
I imagined what it would be like to ride bicycles along these footpaths as they do along some of the European canals.
It became quite routine as we approached each lock for the captain to raise the bow so the ship could fit in each lock chamber. No other vessels were in the lock when our ship entered.
The Bow of the Kawartha Voyageur folded up to fit into each lock chamber. * Photo: Judi Cohen
Day 1 (July 23) — Embarking Kawartha Voyageur & Overnighting in Kingston
We arrived in Kingston Ontario just in time to board at 8:30pm on the Crawford Wharf. Following a short welcome by the captain and getting settled in our cabin, we walked along the busy waterfront and through the downtown area.
The full “strawberry” moon cast a glow on the 19th-century Kingston’s City Hall, a national heritage site, as well as the old CP Rail Caboose and the boardwalk along the water. We then returned and retired to our cabin for a much-needed sleep.
The City Hall of Kingston. * Photo: Wikimedia Commons @Alexander49501
Day 2 (July 24) — Departing Kingston to Jones Falls
At around 8am we set sail, watching the City of Kingston disappear behind us.
Leaving Kingston aboard the Kawartha Voyageur. * Photo: Judi Cohen
We entered the Cataraqui River proceeding upstream while enjoying a breakfast of fresh-baked pumpkin muffins along with choices of porridge, cereal, yoghurt, banana, blueberry pancakes, and sausage patties.
Fresh fruit including, my favourite, pink grapefruit, was available all day.
We arrived at the Kingston Mills locks for the first lockage.
Part of the Kingston Mill lock flight. * Photo: Ross Dunn on Flickr.
This is one of the lock flights (meaning, series of locks) for which the Rideau Canal is so famous. Kingston Mills is made up of a set of three locks, followed by one detached lock, with a total lift of 45 feet.
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Below is my video showing our transit through the Kingston Mills lock.
Walking alongside the lock, we looked up when we heard the train whistle and the thundering sound of the Canadian National Railway train on the overhead bridge.
As we went through Lower Brewers locks, a lunch of lunch of tomato soup and a selection of sandwiches with chips was served. Our apple crisp topped with vanilla ice cream was simply delightful.
At Jones Falls lock we went on a guided walk to see the Whispering Dam.
The Whispering Damn. * Photo: Judi Cohen
Captain Marc walked to the opposite side of the dam and climbed down part way. We waited. Then he started to speak and we could hear him as if he was standing right next to us.
The Jones Falls lock. * Photo: D. Gordon E. Robertson on Flickr
We also passed an old energy plant that we were told hasn’t worked in years.
Marla and I went for another walk after dinner. It became hot, humid and almost steamy leading up to an overnight rain.
Day 3 (July 25) — Heading out from Jones Falls to Poonamalie with a stop in Westport
I awoke at 5am, before the first coffee pot had brewed, to find the top dock covered in dew as I watched the sun begin to rise in the mist. Marla and I went out for a refreshing walk before breakfast.
Once under way, we cruised from Jones Falls Lock along Eel Lake, passing Birch Island to Davis Lock, before entering Lake Opinicon in the heart of the Rideau Lakes.
At Chaffey’s Lock we made a mid-morning stop to explore the area. We walked to the stately Opinicon Hotel owned by the founder of Shopify. Although it was closed, we peeked in the windows and it looked like a very chic hotel directly on the lake.
Next, we followed a trail to a cemetery with memorials to the canal workers.
We cruised through wetlands with many loons and Canada geese bobbing in the water. Captain Marc commented that there are more birds than he has ever seen and suggested it could be because there have been no boats during COVID to disturb the eggs, and less pollution with fuel from boats.
Canada geese in single file floating by. * Photo: Judi Cohen
After lunch, we docked at Westport and walked around town with its many churches, historic post office and museum, visiting some ice cream, fudge and bakery shops along the way. Many of the shops were closed on Sundays. Regardless Westport is a charming town and no doubt we could have easily done some shopping.
We continued along the way to Narrows Lock. Same crew as when I went through about three weeks earlier on a LeBoat houseboat with our samoyed puppy. They remembered us and smiled!!
RELATED: Judi cruises the St. Lawrence River aboard the Canadian Empress. Read her review here!
Our ship was a sensation with all the cottagers, boaters and people in the communities as we passed through locks and hugged the shore along the lake.
They all came out to wave at us as and to ask how we were enjoying our cruise. Boaters came close enough to wave, give us a thumbs up and kibbitz with the captain and guests.
We arrived in time for cocktails on the top deck and a short walk enjoying the sunset and reflections of our ship in the lock.
Day 4 (July 26) — Cruising from Poonamalie to Merrickville
I awoke at 6am to see groundhogs, bunnies and chipmunks frolicking in the garden of the lock-keeper’s house. I knew this was the start of another great day!
After leaving Poonamalie Lock, we entered the Rideau River, and in the distance, we could see a tall water tower and a bridge in the upright position. As we cruised through the Smiths Falls Detached Lock, the quaint town of Smiths Falls appeared.
We had until lunch to explore the town. It was much busier at the lock than it was just a few weeks ago when I cruised the Rideau on a Le Boat houseboat.
It was disappointing that not many stores were open. The signs on the doors said “closed Monday.”
Nonetheless, we enjoyed window shopping, going into the historic Rideau Hotel, visiting it’s lovely little bakery and cafe on the main floor.
As we left Smiths Falls, we passed through the Smiths Falls Combined Locks and continued up the Rideau River cruising through Old Slys Locks, Edmunds Lock and Kilmarnock Lock.
In the later afternoon, we docked in Merrickville, a colourful historic town dating back to the early 19th century and disembarked immediately to get to the shops before they closed. A handy guide book given to us by Ontario Waterway Cruises was a great aid for our walk around the town passing many well-maintained early 19th-century homes.
Charming Merrickville. * Photo: Judi Cohen
Baskets of hanging flowers and street art created a very welcoming feeling.
After dinner everyone on the ship came out to play some bocce ball on the shore.
A Kawartha cruise feels like a family affair. * Photo: Judi Cohen
There was still enough time afterwards to walk through the town again passing antique, glass, ice cream and chocolate shops, and along the waterfront to see the sun setting over the water.
Day 5 (July 27) — Cruising from Merrickville to Long Island Flight Locks
This was a day of tranquil cruising Canada’s Rideau Canal with constantly unfolding vistas and wide-open countryside.
Serenity along the Rideau Canal. * Photo: Ontario Waterway Cruises
Passing through the locks, Captain Marc took out fresh-baked muffins, cookies and coffee to the lock station staff who welcomed the Kawartha Voyageur like an old friend.
We passed through Clowes, Nicholson’s and Burritt’s Rapids Locks before docking for the night at Long Island flight locks. It’s another remarkable setting that helped create the fame of the Rideau Canal with its stone arch dam built by Colonel Redpath.
Our afternoon shore excursion took us to the 1860-built Watson’s Mill in Manotick, which today houses a museum.
This historic 1860-built Watson’s Mill. * Photo: Ontario Waterway Cruises
Then, Marla and I ventured off for a short walk to the Gingerbread Man, a small house converted into a fragrant bakery full of all things gingerbread.
Who can resist all things gingerbread! * Photo: Judi Cohen
Day 6 (July 28) — Going from Long Island Locks to Hartwell Locks
On our final day, we passed by beautiful private homes as we approached Canada’s Capital city — Ottawa.
My video below shows the view from our front row seats.
We stopped at Hog’s Back lock to view the cascading falls before entering the man-made channel passing by the expansive Carleton University campus to our final docking at Hartwell Locks.
In the video below, check out how the locks at Hog’s Back are cranked open the old fashioned way.
We enjoyed a final lunch aboard, then returned to our cabin to collect all of our belongings for disembarkation.
Before boarding our chartered bus taking us to Kingston for our onward transportation, the captain and crew all came out to bid us farewell and thank us for being the “best passengers” ever!
Our drive from Kingston to Toronto was a comfortable 3.5 hours.
Final Thoughts on Cruising Canada’s Rideau Canal aboard Kawartha Voyageur
Cruising with Ontario Waterway Cruises provided a warm, welcoming and rich learning experience with a casual, cottage-like feel.
I hope to cruise on the Quinte and Kawartha itineraries in the future to see more of Canada from the water aboard the Kawartha Voyageur.
The Quinte cruises navigate a 370 km (231 mile) section of the Trent-Severn Waterway, Bay of Quinte and St. Lawrence River/Thousand Islands, while the Kawartha route focuses on the Kawartha Lakes and the Severn River.
No matter which of the three itineraries you choose, you’ll be charmed by the wonderfully quirky Kawartha Voyageur.
Fast Facts
The Itinerary for Cruising Canada’s Rideau Canal from Kingston to Ottawa
- Embarkation starts at 8pm in Kingston
- Day 1 — Kingston to Jones Falls
- Day 2 — Jones Falls to Poonamalie
- Day 3 — Poonamalie to Merrickville
- Day 4 — Merrickville to Long Island flight locks
- Day 5 — Long Island flight locks to Hartwell Locks; chartered bus to Kingston at end of cruise
Vaccination Requirements: Straight from the company: “As of October 30, 2021 Transport Canada will be requiring all passengers and crew to be vaccinated. In this regard, we will only be accepting reservations for our 2022 season from fully vaccinated persons. Proof of your second shot will need to be submitted to our office by regular mail or email when making your reservation.”
Cabins & Accessibility: There are 22 double cabins, with one of them large enough to accommodate a person who needs to use a walker in the cabin. You’ll also find one single cabin.
A company spokeswoman says, “passengers who only use walkers for land use often stow them under their bed. All of our toilets are higher than standard with a grab bar close by.” She adds that they can’t get passengers with wheelchairs on and off the boat, and neither on the buses for excursions, so Kawartha Voyageur is not wheelchair accessible.
Starting Rate: $2,436 CDN (or $2,112 USD) per person including tax.
Lovely memories of the Kawartha cruise will live on. * Photo: Judi Cohen
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HEIDI SARNA
delighted to have been able to read thru this ; hoping to find another version of the rideauwaterway ‘tour’ … that builds-in a lot more detail about its the actual construction; perhaps this would be based on the excellent work of Robert W. Passfield ( published by Parks Cda. in 1982 )
Hello Brian, a pictorial history is available at archives.gov.or.ca.