Canal du Midi Anjodi Hotel Barge Cruise with European Waterways

Canal du Midi Anjodi Hotel Barge Cruise

By Judi Cohen.

For many years I dreamed of traveling on a luxury barge in the south of France and in October 2021 my husband and I made remarkable memories on a Canal du Midi hotel barge cruise aboard European Waterways 8-passenger Anjodi.

Considered an off-the-beaten-path destination in the Languedoc region of southern France, the 240km-Canal du Midi was built in the 17th century to connect Toulouse with Sete on the Mediterranean Sea.

Although my husband and I have travelled on small ships around the world, we had never been to this region of France nor on any barges.

Nervous about sharing an 8-passenger barge with other guests we didn’t know (there were seven passengers in total on our cruise), plus a crew of four, we took a deep breath, packed our small suitcases, and set off to France.

Judi & Lawrence enjoying the sunset aboard Anjodi moored at the Malpas Tunnel.

Our first international trip in 2 years

This was our first international trip since the start of the pandemic, so it was a relief to find virtually all our travel stress evaporated throughout this slow and intimate 6-night small-ship barge journey.

It was exactly what we needed. We felt comfortable whether we were on the top deck of Anjodi gracefully moving along the Canal du Midi or on shore exploring the surrounding towns and villages.

Slow travel on a quirky barge is the perfect way to experience the lesser-travelled regions of France, far away from the crowds.

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Off-season travel has many advantages

If you can plan to travel in October, considered the low season, you will find lower rates, possibly fewer passengers and fewer tourists in the towns visited.

The warm autumn colours in the vineyards, fields and trees provide a lovely yellow/gold/red/rust palette as you meander along the Canal du Midi under a canopy of France’s ubiquitous plane trees and through its many locks.

Top notch food & service on our Canal du Midi Anjodi hotel barge cruise

Every meal, made with local ingredients and a French/Mediterranean twist, delighted us. And the French regional wine pairings completed each lunch and dinner to perfection.

Being spontaneous about dining al fresco on the sun deck or at the elegant French dining table added to the charm and casual vibe on the barge.

The captain and his team pampered us by providing services well beyond our expectations. For instance, when one of the passengers mentioned how much he liked a particular whiskey, the captain bought a bottle in the next village and poured glasses for us upon his return. Further, the chef bought us all a box of local salt in the market and explained how the right salt is vital when preparing French food.

We benefited immensely from Captain Laurent’s long tenure with European Waterways and his depth of knowledge about our barge, the canals, and the villages and towns along the way. There was seemingly no question he couldn’t answer.

The Barge Anjodi

Now, let’s dig in!

The 1929-built Anjodi is a Luxemotor barge (a style of Dutch barge) and the first member of the European Waterways fleet.

Built in Groningen, Netherlands as a cargo barge to transport grain between Amsterdam and Paris, she was named Anjodi in 1963 after the three children of the original owner Tiemen de Weerd — Andries, Johan and Diana.

The classic 8-pax Anjodi was built in 1929. * Photo: European Waterways

Anjodi was purchased by European Waterways in 1982, (refurbished in 1982-1983, and again in 2008), to become one of France’s first ever hotel barges operating on the Canal du Midi.

It felt quite old-world on the inside with the African woods, ornate wood panelling and polished brass accents.

At 30-metres long and five metres wide,  Anjodi is just the right length and width to navigate the canal and the locks. She has two passenger decks. All four passenger cabins at the bow are accessed just two steps down from the main saloon.

The saloon features a dining room table large enough for eight guests as well as comfortable lounge seating, a fully stocked bar, a small library and a selection of games. Modern picture windows with curtains and screens provided a full view of the canal.

Anjodi’s comfy saloon. * Photo: Judi Cohen

The galley located next to the saloon was bright and clean. I enjoyed peeking through the large windows to watch our chef prepping, baking and cooking.

Our amazing chef Michail in the galley where all of the incredible meals are created single-handedly * Photo: Judi Cohen.

Life aboard Anjodi

Our daily routine was quite simple and completely stress-free.

Each day we found our place on the sun deck at the large table or on a lounger as our barge slowly meandered along the canal, interrupted only by our grand meals.

The food and wine on Anjodi were the highlights, prepared and served with understated elegance and perfection.

Thankfully there were no movies, shows, lectures or a gym to distract from the personal service and relaxed ambiance. The saloon’s small library had some games and books about barging.

Our fellow passengers, all Americans ranging in age from from mid-50s to late 70s, were well-travelled, healthy and fit, with a love for French food and wine!

One passenger was an avid cyclist who left the barge every day to cycle through villages, vineyards and along the tow paths before rejoining the barge to dine.

There was never a need to dress up. We were casual and comfortable from morning to night.

What’s what on the Sun Deck

The Sun Deck was accessed from the Saloon with folding panel doors that could be opened depending on the weather. They were locked every night when we were docked.

With the glorious weather, we all made ourselves comfortable on the loungers complete with plump cushions, at the large wood table or in the bubbling hot tub to take in the natural beauty and enjoy seeing French life along the canals.

A moveable canopy provided cover when it got too sunny. With power outlets and USB ports, this was the perfect floating office location!

The Captain welcomed us to join him in the wheelhouse at our leisure. I was surprised at how hard it actually was to turn the wheel “just so” to move the barge in the right direction.

Anjodi – Getting ready for lunch al fresco – Photo – Judi Cohen

Our Cabin on Anjodi

Anjodi has four double cabins, all ensuite with toilets and showers.

Our cabin, called Thym (91-square feet, or 8.45-square metres) had three portholes in the sleeping area and one porthole in the bathroom.

European Waterways categorizes its 17 barges in three classes — First Class, Deluxe and Ultra-Deluxe. The category class refers primarily to the cabins (First-Class barges have the smallest cabins, while Ultra-Deluxe are the biggest and poshest). Anjodi is First Class.

Otherwise, the service, gourmet meals, wines and escorted excursions are of a similar standard across all the European Waterways hotel barges.

Here’s a quick Anjodi cabin tour below!

Having taken many small ships around the world, including two canal cruises most recently in Canada along the Rideau Canal, I knew to pack light and layer up or peel down throughout the day.

RELATED: Judi cruises the Rideau Canal on a Le Boat self-drive boat, here’s her review.

My clothes fit nicely in the closet with built-in shelves, in large sliding drawers under the beds, and in cubby holes and hooks throughout the cabin.

We were comfortable with our bright en-suite bathroom complete with a hair dryer, bath gel, soap, shampoo, fluffy bathrobe, towels and slippers.

At my request our cabin was configured with one double bed rather than two single beds.

The cozy “Thym” cabin on Anjodi. * Photo: Judi Cohen

The ensuite bathroom in the Thym cabin. * Photo: Juidi Cohen

Dining aboard Anjodi was a high point

Chef Mickail masterfully created a moving feast of French delicacies from the moment we arrived until the time we begrudgingly had to disembark at the end of the week.

In particular, the breakfast, served buffet style from 7-9am in the traditional French-style saloon did not disappoint.

I had ample time to relax and enjoy my fresh brewed coffee or cappuccino before digging into the fresh baguette and breads, French pastries, an assortment of cheeses and sliced meats, along with yogurt, fresh fruit, cereals and fresh squeezed orange juice. Eggs, any style, were available by just letting hostess Zita know.

A small blackboard in the saloon was updated with the daily menus.

The chalkboard was updated daily with itinerary and menu. * Photo: Judi Cohen

At lunch (served at 12:30) and dinner (served at 7:30) each course was presented by Mickail, when he shared personal stories about the recipes and details on ingredients before he left us to enjoy each dish.

Quiche Lorraine and salad. * Photo: Judi Cohen

Wines were chosen to pair with every meal and Zita told us about the grapes and the region of production before serving our preference of white, red and rose.

This was fine French dining at its best for an entire week!

Each of the four courses at lunch and dinner was served graciously and paced just right so we could savour every bite.

On some days, the large wood table on the sun deck was set for dining al fresco so we could dine and watch the vineyards, gardens and other boats pass by.

Our Chef explaining each course as we dine al fresco. First course tomato and buffalo buratta cheese. Yum. * Photo: Judi Cohen

The canvas Bimini shade could be adjusted overhead depending on how sunny it was. We ate our meals and enjoyed cocktails throughout the cruise moving between the top deck and the saloon.

We entertained each other with stories about our previous travels and our dreams for future travels, our love of fine wine and gourmet food, and how grateful we all were to be able to travel again after so long.

All of us agreed that a small barge cruise was a great choice to avoid the crowds and be outdoors as much as possible.

Below, Chef Mickail introduces the beautiful lunch he prepared.

An overview of our Canal du Midi Anjodi hotel barge cruise itinerary —

6 nights, 7 days from Marseillan to Le Somail for a total of 81 km

During our slow journey we cruised (at an average of 3mph) through 24 locks on the 17th-century Canal du Midi and Canal de la Robine, along with countless medieval tunnels and bridges. The Canal du Midi, by the way, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

A map of the 6-night hotel barge cruise on Anjodi from Marseillan to Le Somail. * Photo: Judi Cohen

Along the way we were able to walk and cycle along the towpaths beside the avenues of plane trees lining the canals.

We felt like locals being greeted by smiles from the others on the towpath.

As we walked along the tow path, we stopped to take this photo of the Anjodi cruising along the Canal du Midi. * Photo: Judi Cohen

Captain Laurent said that a fungus transferred during World War II by US soldiers, has resulted in over 42,000 plane trees being felled in France over the decades since.

There are stretches along the canals where new trees are being planted near the stumps of the diseased trees.

Judi on sun deck with plane trees lining the canal. * Photo: Lawrence Cohen

Four folding bicycles plus helmets and maps were available for guests to explore the rural areas surrounding the canal and along the tow paths as well.

On Anjodi, and some of the other barges, a “Bike Plus” plan is available for avid cyclists, which provides them with complementary detailed maps and directions on the length of rides and the meeting points along the canal to rejoin the cruise. (On our cruise, one man did the “Bike Plus” program and he had arranged for a non-folding bike, shown below.)

Judi with the special non-folding bike at Salleles-d’Aude. * Photo: Lawrence Cohen

Day 1 (Sunday, October 24)

Embarking Anjodi in Marseillan & overnighting in Portiragnes

Our transfer from Narbonne to Marseillan took under an hour and was a scenic drive through wobbly cobblestone roads in small villages.

Welcomed aboard by Captain Laurent, Hostess Zita and Chef Mickail with champagne and canapes, we commenced our journey within minutes of embarkation towards the Canal du Midi.

Judi & Lawrence enjoying the Champagne welcome aboard in Marseillan. * Photo: Captain Laurent

Under pink sunset skies, we entered our first lock, the circular lock Ecluse Ronde de Agde, with one exit to the Mediterranean and two to the Canal du Midi.

Approaching the Ecluse Ronde Agde lock at sunset. * Photo: Judi Cohen

We enjoyed our first taste of Chef Mickail’s cooking magic with a roasted goat cheese salad, chicken with a niçoise sauce, a selection of cheeses including Forme d’Ambert and Laguilole grand Aubrac, ending with a Tiramisu before overnighting at Portiranges.

Day 2 (Monday October 25)

Cruising from Portiragnes to Villeneuve-les-Beziers

Being an early riser, I was the first one to enjoy the yogurt, fruits, fresh breads and pastries, cheese and charcuterie along with a hot cup of coffee, served in the Saloon.

Following breakfast, we cruised past saltwater plains with migratory birds, including pink flamingos standing in the shallow waters.

Anxious to get some exercise, we hopped off the barge as the water was rising in one of the locks to walk along the tree-lined towpath, returning to the barge at Beziers.

Judi walking along the tow path beside Canal du Midi as the Anjodi moves between locks. * Photo: Lawrence Cohen

We did over 9,000 steps before 10:30 am!

At lunch, our lentil salad with a poached egg on top, followed by a Hake filet with a fennel confit and lemon sauce, was delightful.

Lentil salad with poached egg. * Photo: Judi Cohen

The best rice pudding I’ve ever tasted along with La Tasque Rose completed our meal.

Following lunch, we enjoyed a Languedoc wine tour and tasting at the 145-hectare Chateau Pech-Celeyran, owned by the Saint-Exupéry family for over five generations.

Antoine de Saint Exupery (1900-1940) was a French pilot, and his adventures as an aviator inspired much of his writing including the most notable 1943 publication of The Little Prince, a delightful book that my children enjoyed when they were younger.

Winery visit at Chateau Pech-Celeyran. * Photo: Judi Cohen

On the vineyard tour. * Photo: Judi Cohen

In the late afternoon we departed Beziers and proceeded to the seven-rise Fonserannes Locks, the most famous of all the locks along the Canal du Midi, earning the Canal du Midi its designation as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The famous Fonserannes Locks. * Photo: European Waterways

Moving from lock to lock we rose to the top of the flight of locks to dock for the night.

Once docked, we bundled up and walked back to the bottom along the steps next to the locks as the sun was setting.

Day 3 (Tuesday October 26)

Cruised from Villeneuve-les-Beziers to Malpas

After breakfast we departed with our guide Jules for a drive to the ancient but well-preserved walled city of Pezenas. We explored the city by foot along the cobblestone alleyways and walking streets, including through one of the old residential areas.

Here, wood doors of all shapes and sizes gave the old buildings their character. There was a store that specialized in the production and repair of wood doors and hardware owned by a famous craftsman busy at work inside.

We also visited the medieval Jewish district with street names Juiverie and Litanies. Jewish families were expelled from France in 1394.

Village of Pezenas. * Photo: Judi Cohen

Returning for lunch, we had the afternoon and evening to explore the area around the Malpas Tunnel. The information center at Malpas depicted the history of this part of the Canal du Midi.

The guide Jules drove Lawrence and me up to the top of the mountain (other guests walked up), where we overlooked the Roman road and the Roman camp.

Sunset was the ideal time to see circular fields on the dried lake, Etang de Montady dating back to 1268, and the mountains in the distance between France and Spain.

Circular Fields at Etang de Montady. * Photo: Judi Cohen

Day 4 (Wednesday October 27)

Malpas to Capestang

We departed on an early morning excursion to Narbonne, starting with a tour of the Beaux Art Le Halles Narbonne (market) with Chef Mickail. He was shopping for the finest and freshest seafood specialties, and asked us what we preferred as we browsed.

Shore excursion to Narbonne included shopping in the market for the seafood and other goodies for our lunch on Anjodi. * Photo: Judi Cohen

What a treat to be able to select the oysters, lobsters and other delights for our lunch upon our return to Anjodi.

Narbonne, on the banks of the Canal de la Robine, is a quaint, walkable city rich in Roman history.

We visited the Archbishop’s Palace and 14th-century cathedral in the center of town, and then strolled slowly to an outdoor café for an apple pastry.

The cathedral in Narbonne. * Photo: Judi Cohen

Our fresh seafood extravaganza awaited on our return to Anjodi.

With delight we enjoyed fresh oysters, mussels, gigantic shrimp, snails and fresh breads, accompanied by local wines Piqpoul de Pinet and Domaine Gaugal.

A course of camembert completed our lunch.

Scrumptious shrimp at lunch. * Photo: Judi Cohen

Seafood feast — fresh from the Marche in Narbonne where we shopped with Chef Mickail. * Photo: Judi Cohen

Malpas Tunnel

Then we cruised through the historic Malpas Tunnel, the world’s oldest canal tunnel, dating back to the 17th century.

The pitted limestone walls created small niches where food and cans of beer are left by boat captains, which has become a tradition in the Malpas.

Anjodi emerging from the Malpas Tunnel. * Photo: Judi Cohen

The canal, beyond the Malpas, was higher than the surrounding land allowing us to enjoy the autumn-colored fields and vineyards with rolling hills and mountains as a backdrop.

While there were no locks along this stretch, there were many barges along the sides of the canal and people walking in the tow paths as we approached the 14th-century village of Capestang, where we explored the cobblestone alleyways before dinner.

Judi and Lawrence on the top deck in Capestang. * Photo by guest

We were escorted by our chef to Restaurant L’Ambassade in the city of Beziers for a fabulous gourmet five-course dining experience with pre-selected wine pairings (all included in the fares).

While it was nice to be in a restaurant, I would have been just as content to enjoy our own chef’s cooking magic on our barge.

I have never felt the need to “go out for a meal” less than during my week aboard Anjodi!

Day 5 (Thursday October 28)

Capestang to Salelle D’Aude

Another beautiful morning as we made our way along the Canal de la Robine going through five locks.

After breakfast, Captain Laurent gave me the wheel and under his close supervision I steered Anjodi along a very windy area passing several barges on the narrow canal.

It took us over three hours to wend our way along this 25-kilometre scenic raised stretch of the canal.

We came to a sharp curve with overhanging trees that Laurent called “champagne corner” where he took back the wheel.

The captain told me that if we had driven it would have taken 15 minutes and by bike about an hour and a half!

We were in no rush with everyone settled on the sun deck enjoying the picturesque autumn landscape.

With a glass of champagne, I luxuriated in the roof-top hot tub with my slippers and bathrobe close at hand.

Now this was decadence!

Judi in the hot tub aboard Anjodi. * Photo: Lawrence Cohen

During our lunch, we docked at Salelle D’Aude and in the middle of the afternoon we were off to one of the most beautiful villages I’ve seen in France, the old city of 13th-century Minerve. It is the capital of the Minervois wine area in the Region of Occitanie.

We caught awe-inspiring glimpses of the ancient walled city hanging off the cliffs while we were driving.

Walking inside the walled city along the wobbly cobblestones, passing a few tiny shops, we came upon a church perched high upon the mountainside with panoramic views of the greens, golds and browns of the grapevines, fields and trees.

A local gentleman with his old dog caught my eye as he sat comfortably watching us trundle by.

Village of Minervois. * Photo: Judi Cohen

When we returned to Anjodi we were pleasantly surprised to be greeted by a jazz trio, cocktails and canapes including warm olive bread and open face cucumber and cream cheese sandwiches.

The footbridge across the canal, designed by Gustave Eiffel, was the perfect French backdrop as the trio performed!

Dinner was then served in the saloon and we all chatted till the wee hours of the morning over wine and whiskey.

Jazz Trio on Anjodi with backdrop of a foot bridge designed by Gustave Eiffel over the canal (Yes, that Eiffel!). * Photo: Judi Cohen

Day 6 (Friday October 29)

Salelle D’Aude to Le Somail

One of my most memorable excursions on this cruise was our visit to the medieval city of Carcassonne, a UNESCO World Heritage site. It’s an outstanding medieval fortified town with defenses encircling a castle.

It does not surprise me that it is one of the most visited attractions in all of France.

Coming here outside of the peak summer season allowed us to stroll freely without crowds.

The main gate into Carcassonne on an afternoon shore excursion. * Photo Judi Cohen

Upon our return, we started our last stretch of cruising on the Canal de la Robine, making our way to rejoin the Canal du Midi and on to our final destination at the quiet dock at Le Somail.

The Captain’s Dinner in the saloon was quite casual, however some guests kicked it up a notch with jewelry and nicer shirts.

I paid close attention to the Chef as he explained each course of our final meal aboard, commencing with foie gras scallops with roasted fig, a light-tasting ravioli mushroom with langoustine foam, a main course of vitello tonatto, followed by a cheese course of Sainte Maure Epossie and Tomme a la Truffe, and a deconstructed Pina Colada.

The captain proudly explained the accompanying wines, a Chablis Domaine Laroche and Santenay Champs Claude.

The festive Captain’s dinner on our last evening. * Photo: Judi Cohen

Following dinner, we were entertained by Chef Mickail and a talented guest, Rick, singing and playing guitar.

We all sang along past midnight. It truly felt like a gathering of family!

Day 7 (Saturday October 30)

Disembarkation in Le Somail with transfer to Narbonne

Following breakfast, our van was loaded and we were ready for our short transfer back to Narbonne.

This cruise was the last of the 2021 season and the captain explained how Anjodi would be deep-cleaned and prepared for her winter storage.

I saw many other vessels in Le Somail already tucked away for the season.

Disembarkation in picturesque Le Somail. * Photo: Judi Cohen

It was hard to believe that a week passed by in the blink of an eye!

Our adventure continued with a slow drive from Narbonne to Paris, including an overnight stay in the Disney-like, old city of Bourges, before returning to Canada.

Final Thoughts

Barging was a unique and memorable experience, ideal for those who prefer small ships in off-the-beaten-path destinations and are willing to embrace slow travel without all the noise and structure.

I am looking forward to experiencing more hotel barges in France and other countries.

Getting There

We flew to Toulouse and took a train to Narbonne, overnighting at a bed & breakfast called La Maison Gustave.  (It took us 25 minutes to walk from the train station to the B&B. We had to walk up three flights of narrow winding stairs to get to our lovely, clean room with a spectacular view of the cathedral. Fresh bread was delivered to the lobby in the morning and coffee, cheese, jams and yogurt were in our fridge in the room.)

Included in the fares, European Waterways transferred us from Narbonne to Marseillan, where the cruise began.

Weather in France

It is very hot in July and August in the south of France (80s & 90s Fahrenheit) so it is best to go in the spring or fall, when it’s typically in the 60s & 70s F (or 17-21 Celsius).

Every year, Canal du Midi closes between early November and March.

For the opportunity to travel slowly and be immersed in the culture, history, food and wine of the Languedoc Region.

A Canal du Midi barge cruise is great for cycling and walking along the tow paths along the canals.

Anjodi Fares

Fares for a 6-night Canal du Midi cruise aboard the 8-passenger hotel barge Anjodi start at $4,950 USD per person and include:

• all gourmet meals
• fine wines
• open bar for the duration of the cruise
• daily escorted excursions
• admissions
• private transfers at either end of the cruise

Full barge charters are also available for families and friend groups starting at $37,000 USD for eight passengers ($4,625 pp).

Interested in chartering a European Waterways barge cruise?

Contact European Waterways @ https://www.europeanwaterways.com/ or 1 800 394 8630 to enquire about a barge charter and tell them you heard about them on QuirkyCruise.com!

Peaceful last night aboard Anjodi at Le Somail. * Photo: Judi Cohen

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