Small Ship Alaska Cruise
By John Roberts
I just returned to Alaska with UnCruise Adventures almost five years after my first UnCruise expedition in this wild frontier.
This time, my family came along for this small ship Alaska cruise journey. Alaska is spectacular any time you go, but this cruise had an extra-special feel because it marked a special milestone for all of the interested parties.
SAVE: UnCruise is offering savings on 2023 Alaska adventures & other itins too! Click here.
UnCruise’s resumption of sailing represents a significant first step for the cruise industry and tourism in Alaska. For those joining, this voyage offered the chance for avid and active travelers to get back to doing what they love after more than a year and a half sitting on the sidelines.
UnCruise Adventures made the decisive step to resume cruising with fully vaccinated passengers and crew (who all also had to pass a COVID test prior to sailing). That means, we all had the peace of mind that we were completely safe while onboard.
We sailed with 60 passengers and 30 crew members aboard the 86-passenger Legacy for a memorable trip through the remote and scenic wilderness of Southeast Alaska, departing from Juneau and ending in Sitka, on the 7-night “Northern Passages and Glacier Bay” cruise.
John & Colleen on the bow. * Photo: friend
It was amazing to be able to see smiles, shake hands and eventually embrace new friends with whom we had shared a batch of ridiculously fun new adventures.
By the way, as the first fully vaccinated cruise in North America, this was a mask-free trip. It was a joy to be able see smiles and safely hug new friends.
John & his family’s UnCruise Alaska travel bubble was mask-less. * Photo: John Roberts
Our travel bubble in the remote locations we visited allowed us to enjoy a mask-free environment both onboard and ashore as we sailed on the Legacy.
The 86-passenger Legacy in Alaska. * Photo: John Roberts
It was one of the first few cruises for UnCruise, which had remained idle for more than 18 months during the pandemic travel shutdown. The small-ship leader in Alaska has placed six of its vessels in this destination for the season to take advantage of the high demand that travelers are showing in bookings for cruises in this special place.
UnCruise CEO and owner Dan Blanchard joined our sailing and was beaming all week as he engaged with his guests.
UnCruise CEO Captain Dan Blanchard (second from left) enjoys mingling with passengers. * Photo: John Roberts
VIDEO: Captain Dan Blanchard’s Welcome at the start of the cruise
“You are all part of a very unique and special moment in time,” he told the cruisers.
Our chance to sail in Alaska with no big ships or other people anywhere in sight for almost a full week really did make this a fantastic journey. It was also rewarding to know that we were part of a great comeback story as some of the first travelers to visit Alaska and help reinvigorate an economy that relies so much on tourism.
I sailed on Legacy before on the Columbia and Snake rivers in Washington, Idaho and Oregon. This is the largest ship in the UnCruise fleet and makes an especially nice platform for adventure in Alaska.
RELATED: Read John’s Rivers of Adventure voyage with UnCruise, along the Columbia and Snake Rivers in the Pacific Northwest.
VIDEO: Here’s John’s full ship tour of the Legacy.
Embarking from Juneau
We departed Juneau on a rainy afternoon but were greeted by mostly blue skies the next day at Idaho Inlet. This is when the fun starts and we build up that camaraderie that that infuses each UnCruise voyage I’ve taken. (This was my sixth!)
John on deck of Wilderness Legacy. * Photo: Colleen McDaniel
Blue skies! * Photo: John Roberts
We build family onboard with our small group in the wild through a shared passion for immersive travel and fun activities as we hunt out sighting of animals, plants and other Alaskan artifacts (bear and moose scat, anyone?). Each afternoon and evening as we come back onto the ship with our separate excursion groups, we beam as we tell stories about what we spotted on our bushwhack or kayaking session or skiff tour or shore walk.
Plenty was seen on these outings, as well as while wandering the decks on Legacy or basking on the bow as we slowly sailed past points of particular interest. You could even appreciate the sights from the comfort of one of the two hot tubs while savoring a cocktail or beer.
Life is good! The Legacy’s hot tub. * Photo: John Roberts
Travelers on this small ship Alaska cruise are happier than they have been in more than a year. The experience is real, raw and rejuvenating.
At Idaho Inlet, Colleen and I join Blanchard on a thrilling bushwhacking outing. You know this sailing was a big deal for the cruise line because the big boss man was onboard, and he was as giddy as the rest of us that travel is reborn again in his adopted home state.
Bushwhacking with Captain Blanchard. * Photo: John Roberts
Bushwhacking is a hike in its purest form. No trails. Just get dropped off at a rocky beach and find a way into the Tongass Forest, picking up animal trails and pushing through muskegs and blueberry bushes trying to carve out a route that lets you get a real taste of what an old growth forest is like.
Bushwhacking through the Tongass Forest. * Photo: John Roberts
We’re among tall cedars, hemlock and spruce trees, spotting bear and Sitka black-tail deer poop, various mushrooms and fungi and tasting leaves from plants like Devil’s club and witches jelly. We even come across a deer antler that had been shed.
This was a morning hike, and we covered about two miles up and down a semi-steep hill in the verdant temperate forest. It was breathtaking to be in such a gorgeous natural spot, especially after being trapped at home like most others around the world for more than a year. Being back out here gave me a great perspective and reinforced the notion that we should never take experiences like these for granted.
John feeling grateful to be traveling again. * Photo: Colleen McDaniel
Two Days in Glacier Bay
On our second full day of the itinerary, we entered Glacier Bay National Park for the first of two days there.
Glacier Bay for 2 days! 8 Photo: John Roberts
We slipped into a secluded bay called Hugh Miller Inlet, with a backdrop that could have been mistaken for a painting. Sun-splashed snowy peaks surrounded our anchorage for the day.
Idyllic anchorage. * Photo: John Roberts
With two days in Glacier Bay, we planned to do everything we could to add dozens of creatures to the white board hanging in the hallway just outside the main lounge. This board held all the sightings passengers and crew piled up throughout the cruise, and being an adventurer who could lay claim to adding a new bird species, big mammal or tiny marine creature to the list was a nice feather in the cap.
Kayaking is King
Suzy was our guide as a group of us headed out for a paddle at Hugh Miller Inlet. We kayaked close to shore and saw bald eagles perched in bare trees and skimmed past rocks that were festooned with barnacles.
Kayaking excursions that hug the the shoreline is how UnCruise rolls! * Photo: John Roberts
We heard whales spouting in the distance, but were unable to spot them. We scored with some nice animal sightings as we paddled in a waterway bracketed by mountains. We witnessed a pair of harlequin ducks, seals, river otters and several porpoises that glided past our group as we drifted along the calm waters on a sunny morning.
Kayaking is a favorite UnCruise pastime. * Photo: John Roberts
We also were introduced to a shy little seabird, the marbled murrelet. It was the first of many sightings we would get during the trip. This member of the auk family nests in old growth forests and tips its butt skyward and darts underwater whenever one of our kayaks approaches.
After two hours in the inlet, we headed back to Legacy to get ready for lunch.
Fueling up for the Adventure
We fueled up on pulled pork arepas.
Pulled pork arepas. * Photo: John Roberts
We were offered desserts at lunch and dinner. And, of course, we indulged. This time, it was a spectacular cake made with cardamom and accented with goat cheese crème anglaise.
Desserts at lunch & dinner were hard to resist! * Photo: John Roberts
The food and service on Legacy matched the great expectations I have from my past expeditions with the line. Chef Brendan and pastry chef Tanya created all kinds of palate pleasers.
Cruisers happily downed fresh salmon dishes, more than 60 pounds of dungeness crab on “Crab Night,” as well as surf and turf served family style on large planks.
Crab night feast! * Photo: John Roberts
We also had a scrumptious pulled pork polenta dish and other meals crafted from cod and rock fish.
YUM! Pulled pork & polenta. * Photo: John Roberts
Salad with salmon. * Photo: John Roberts
Tanya delivered sweet treats to die for at lunch and dinner, as well as cookies and brownies that were quickly gobbled up as soon as they hit the lounge each afternoon during snack time.
Afternoon snacks! * Photo: John Roberts
I was ecstatic to be able to indulge in two of my favorite things — tasty food and an incredible array of wildlife activities.
Sure, I’ve been keeping busy over the past year with outdoor hikes close to home in Colorado, but traveling to Alaska to join friends and family on these types of outings is what gets me really amped up.
Plus, we always meet new friends and really enjoy tapping into the enthusiasm and expertise offered by UnCruise expedition leaders.
Skiff driver Jocelyn. * Photo: John Roberts
Bush-whacking Adventure
So after lunch, I took the chance for a lay down in the afternoon, before we were due to head ashore for what was billed as a simple shore meander.
Well, Suzy got word that our group tends to like some more challenging adventures. So, as she pointed to the steep knoll that hovered over us as we stood on the rocky beach, she asked whether we might like to take a crack at scaling that sucker.
John surveys the rocky beach. * Photo: Colleen McDaniel
Our shore meander quickly morphed into a full-on bushwhack. Our group of eight cracked smiles and were up for the task, pulling our way up extremely steep terrain, bending back branches, pushing through thorny Devil’s club.
The bush whacking was the real deal! * Photo: John Roberts
We eventually made it to the snowy point, a place with just enough room for all of us to squeeze into. After taking in the views, we gauged the backside of the knoll for a way down.
Off-road treks are par for the UnCruise course. * Photo: John Roberts
It was very steep, and we had to butt-slide down in a few spots, emerging back on flat land fairly mud-stained and totally satisfied with a really fun outing.
After dinner, Captain Doug brought the ship alongside the steep vertical limestone cliffs that create an ideal habitat for mountain goats. And we saw several deftly perched there.
Bears! * Photo: John Roberts
Then, brown bears showed up, two on shore and another roaming the cliffside.
The wildlife-viewing session got even better when a humpback began spouting and showing its tail. Cormorants sailed overhead and a pair of puffins remained undaunted by the spectacle as they carried on an intense bout of mating. Heads were spinning, as cruisers roamed the bow and wandered from starboard to port side to catch a good look at all the various animals on display.
Wild Wonderland
Yes, I know this sounds unreal. But it is Alaska, and this wild wonderland always seems to deliver.
The week continued with more revealing exploration in the forests and on the waterways. The 60 cruisers onboard created an upbeat energy that came from the joy of traveling again, being able to do it unmasked and safely and sharing incredible moments in a stunning destination.
We said goodbye to Glacier Bay after a second adventure-filled day. It started as we woke up with our bow in toward Margerie Glacier, where the ship was gently lolled about after a large chunk calved off the glacier and sent a wave up the fjord. Then, we repositioned to Lamplugh Glacier and kayaked close in to the big blue ice formation.
Endless sensorial pleasure! * Photo: John Roberts
Jump into Small Ship Alaska Cruising
After the kayaking, it was time for the traditional UnCruise polar plunge. To be a true UnCruiser, you have to participate in this wild event, whether plunging yourself or cheering from the rails.
I joined a couple dozen crew members and fellow nut-job passengers in jumping from the second deck into the below-38 “refreshing” blue water. I liked it so much, I did it twice.
John is always up for a cold one! * Photo: Jason Leppert
VIDEO: Watch John jump!!
After wrapping up in a robe, gulping down a hot chocolate spiked with Baileys, I hit up the hot tub with a celebratory beer, alongside my new friend Eric from Oregon. He also plunged twice and said he and his wife, Nichole, who celebrated a birthday while on the cruise, were having more fun than they could have imagined.
Proof!! * Photo: John Roberts
Then after dinner, we arrived to Bartlett Cove, a ranger station at the edge of the forest, and went ashore for a gorgeous trail walk at sunset. Some saw a brown bear, several had a close encounter with a porcupine, and we all got a chance to see the green rainforest in Glacier Bay one final time before sailing off to the next destination in SE Alaska.
“Glacier Bay sticks with you and leaves you wanting more,” our guide, Bobby DeMarinis said. “It’s a special place.”
We completed the voyage after visits to Neka Bay, where we tried our first coastal “tidepooling” walk. It’s not physically intense at all, but exploring the creatures that are exposed in the intertidal zone when the tide is out is an incredibly colorful and immersive experience.
A coastal “tidepooling” walk in Neka Bay. * Photo: John Roberts
Bobby explained how to hunt and peck around the shoreline for marine life beneath and attached to rocks. We easily spotted sea stars of many colors, as well as sea slugs, mussels, crabs, tiny chitons, barnacles and limpets. It was a fascinating look at some of the under-appreciated creatures of the region.
Starfish soup! * Photo: John Roberts
VIDEO: John takes us along on his “tidepooling” walk.
Then, Jessie took us on a challenging afternoon bushwhack. These forays into the Tongass Forest, making our own paths, became our favorite activity. We tried bushwhacks in four locations, and each one gave a look at a different type of forest and landscape.
We took our turns kissing banana slugs, hugging trees, cuddling up to mossy nurse logs and pointing out interesting fungi, such as bear bread, which grows on dead trees.
John gets cozy with a banana slug. * Photo: Colleen McDaniel
Guide Brady with a big fat slug in hand. * Photo: John Roberts
The journey wrapped up too quickly, after visits to Deep Bay — situated between Baranof Island and Chichagof Island — and The Magouns, a state marine park near Sitka, where we ended our voyage.
With the days winding down, the food fest ramped up. Chef Brendan delivered with our crab feast and, on the final night, the spectacular surf and turf spread.
As we sailed toward Sitka, the crew welcomed us all to the lounge for a special video presentation, a montage of videos and photos that showed all the fun adventures and animal encounters that occurred throughout the cruise.
Blanchard capped the viewing with a highly emotional chat with the group (there might have been tears) as he expressed deep gratitude that we were able to be part of UnCruise’s restart in Alaska.
Yes, this cruise was unlike any other I have had. It was important for all of us, for a variety of reasons.
VIDEO: Making the most of 24 hours in Sitka.
Wilderness Legacy
The ship is undergoing a name change and will get a new paint job so that it more closely matches the rest of the UnCruise Adventures fleet.
Wilderness Legacy is UnCruise’s largest ship, carrying up to 86 passengers, and it features four decks and basic cozy cabins.
There are no frills, but it fits the bill perfectly for the expeditions in launches in Alaska and elsewhere.
The top sun deck has two hot tubs and a small area at the back that offers some workout equipment and has space for the morning stretch classes.
Morning stretch classes are a draw for fit folks like John. * Photo: John Roberts
John getting in some reps at the open-air stern. * Photo: Colleen McDaniel
Decks 2 and 3 have passenger staterooms, with Deck 2 also serving as the heart of the ship with the large lounge area (with a bar) and the wide-open bow used for wildlife viewing opportunities.
The most common cabin on board is the Trailblazer, with fixed beds and a small window. * Photo: UnCruise
VIDEO: John shares a tour of his Commander-category cabin with fixed twin beds.
Deck 1 has cabins with porthole views, as well as the main dining room and the Pesky Barnacle, a venue used for briefing cruisers about to head ashore. It also offers bottle-filling water stations and a chest full of board games.
Legacy’s dining room. * Photo: UnCruise
At the very back, boat operations take place from the Sea Dragon floating marine platform. This is used for launching stand-up paddle boarding, kayaking and skiff tours.
Legacy’s watersports platform. * Photo: John Roberts
Your cruise fare includes meals, drinks and all the adventures you can handle.
Until we meet again …. * Photo: John Roberts
VIDEO: John’s great packing tips for an Alaska cruise!
RELATED: Another Look at the Legacy in Alaska by QC Contributor Judi Cohen.
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HEIDI SARNA
