Marne Canal Barge Cruise Review
By Kathryn Harrison
Sunday – Arrival in the Rain
The rain began somewhere past Paris and kept us company all the way east. In the back of a comfortable van, we made gentle small talk with our future shipmates — two friends from Massachusetts and a Canadian couple celebrating their 50th wedding anniversary. We compared notes on croissants and jet lag while the countryside blurred out our windows.
Then, through the downpour, I saw her: the 8-passenger Kir Royale, navy-hulled and cream-trimmed, moored beneath a tunnel of trees on the Marne Canal. Ben squeezed my hand. Seven years earlier he’d done a similar barge trip with his mother and promised himself he’d return with me — his wife, the unapologetic Champagne lover.
Charles, our cruise director, met us with a grin. “My English is very French,” he said, handing out flutes of chilled bubbly. The six of us passengers gathered in the glowing salon as he introduced the crew: André, the taciturn French captain who had spent his life steering the country’s inland waterways; Julie, a cheerful deckhand who handled ropes and locks with the grace of a dancer; Rosario, a waiter who would guide us through wine and cheese pairings; Sabina, the Bulgarian hostess who mixed the perfect apéritif and somehow kept every cabin immaculate; and finally Léo, the chef — Paris-trained in a Michelin-starred kitchen but drawn here for freedom and creativity.
After safety briefings we toasted the week ahead, then took a soggy stroll through Châlons-en-Champagne — its medieval timber frames gleaming in the rain, the Cathedral of Saint-Étienne echoing softly within.
By the time we returned, lamps glowed in the barge windows and the scent of dinner drifted from the galley. Rain or not, it was already beautiful.
VIDEO: Before we start reviewing the ports, below is a quick tour of Kir Royale's common areas; note the generous outdoor deck space, much more than most hotel barges offer.
Monday – Épernay and the First Taste
Morning brought clear light and the first hint of blue sky. We set off slowly, the Kir Royale easing through her first of more than a dozen locks. For someone who hates to miss anything, this pace was perfect — slow enough to watch the world form in layers: reeds, cottages, vineyards, sky.
After enjoying the cruising for nearly four hours, we gathered in the dining room. Lunch was smoked-mozzarella salad followed by cabbage and sausage. Classic, simple and delicious. Rosario explained the day’s wine; Sabina appeared with warm bread. Everything about service was effortless yet precise.
That afternoon Charles whisked us to Épernay for our first tasting at Maison Boizel. In vaulted chalk cellars we walked among bottles aging in silence. I listened eagerly, glass in hand, while Ben smiled at my excitement. The 2012 vintage sang of brioche and citrus; I took notes like a student.
Back onboard, Léo’s dinner set the tone: swordfish with daikon, pork belly with beetroot three ways, cheeses introduced by Rosario, and tonka-bean tiramisu.
Léo emerged briefly to greet us. “In Paris I cooked other people’s menus,” he said. “Here I cook mine.” Freedom, it turns out, tastes exquisite.
Tuesday – Reims and the Rhythm of the River
By Tuesday we’d found our rhythm. We woke early and took out the barge’s bikes, pedaling along the canal we had already traversed — careful not to spoil the day’s surprises ahead. Misty air, birdsong, the steady hum of tires on gravel; it felt like living inside a watercolor. We nearly missed the barge’s departure but fortunately, it headed directly into a lock so we managed to re-board in time for coffee and croissants.
For me, exercise meant I could indulge completely, and that morning indulgence came in the form of a hot tub. I slipped into the water on the bow, steam curling around me as vines and cottages glided past. The slow rhythm of the locks was hypnotic, the countryside revealing itself in shifting greens and golds.
There’s something meditative about moving at four miles an hour: the world expands as you slow down.
After lunch we drove to Reims, its cathedral rising like lace from stone. Inside, the stained glass glowed — some panes donated by Champagne families, others designed by Marc Chagall. I stood beneath them thinking about the centuries of kings crowned here, the permanence of beauty.
Rain returned; we ducked into a café for chocolat chaud and espresso, watching umbrellas blossom in the square.
Back at the barge, Sabina handed us Cosmopolitans and chocolates. After a nap and a shower, Léo sent out cod confit with red-curry beans, followed by a rhubarb meringue.
Dinner felt both grand and intimate, the conversation easy, the service seamless. The combination of elegance and ease felt perfectly French: cultured, but never hurried.
Charles joined us afterward to preview the next day’s route, his knowledge of Champagne history encyclopedic yet never dry.
Wednesday – Frerejean Frères and the Marne in Sunlight
Midweek brought sun and a sense of contentment. We visited Champagne Frerejean Frères, a boutique house run by descendants of the Taittinger family.
After tasting and lunch, Ben and I decided to skip the van ride back and walk down through the fields instead. This is part of what makes a barge trip so special. You can set your pace and activities.
Roses marked the ends of each vine row, their scent rising in the warm air. Every few meters a stone marker bore a famous name — Pol Roger, Bollinger, Perrier-Jouët — a who’s who of bubbles carved into limestone. Ben stopped to photograph the vines; I breathed in the scent of warm earth and chalk. Every step felt like an invitation to slow down and look closer.
While we’d spent the first two days cruising the Canal Lateral a la Marne, by late afternoon we had entered the Marne proper, a wide and winding river with more activity from fisherman and pleasure craft. (Both the Marne canal and river eventually connect via Vitry-le-François to the Canal de la Marne au Rhin, extending navigation toward the Rhine.)
VIDEO: Below is a quick look at cruising on the Marne River.
André and Julie worked in quiet coordination, easing the barge through locks built for another century (we passed through about 17 locks during the cruise). Watching them was like glimpsing France’s living history — muscle memory of a time when these canals carried wine, grain, and gossip across the country.
That evening, dinner arrived in delicate succession: pea-and-feta tart, cheese, apple-pastry dessert. Sabina refilled glasses; Rosario described each wine’s region and pairing. I remember thinking that this, finally, was the art of balance — motion and rest, indulgence and renewal.
Thursday – Hautvillers, Ayala and a Night of Music
The sun blazed again, so we set out walking through Damery toward Hautvillers, surrounded by vines heavy with promise. It was the Feast of the Ascension, a public holiday, and as we reached the village we noticed families in their Sunday best heading toward the abbey, resting place of the Dom Pérignon Inside, we realized we’d stumbled into the children’s First Communion. Bells rang, incense drifted, and for a few minutes we simply stood, travelers folded into local life.
From the terrace above, the view over Épernay and the Montagne de Reims shimmered.
Later, in Ay, we toured Champagne Ayala, housed in elegant art-deco buildings. Our guide — a former Parisian wine-bar owner turned local — spoke flawless English and radiant enthusiasm. A giant illuminated map showed every vineyard that feeds Ayala’s wines. I couldn’t resist ordering a case to ship home.
Lunch back on deck was a sun-kissed buffet: quiche, tabbouleh, endive salad, rosé sweating in its ice bucket.
For a self-professed maximizer, this was paradise — I’d biked, walked, explored, and now reclined, completely content. The afternoon drifted by in naps and quiet laughter as the barge glided toward Dormans.
That evening two musicians boarded — a guitarist and vocalist performing chansons françaises from the 1940s and ’50s. Under strings of lights we toasted our Canadian companions’ anniversary with Champagne and a raspberry-macaron cake.
Ben and I ended the night in the hot tub under a canopy of stars, the church spire reflected in the river. It was one of those moments you wish you could bottle.
Friday – Château-Thierry and Farewell Bells
Our last morning began with another ride, following the towpath to the Château de Dormans and its hilltop World War I memorial chapel.
We returned just as the Kir Royale cast off for her final voyage down the Marne.
The scenery that day felt almost cinematic — vineyards climbing the hillsides, swans gliding beside us, Julie looping ropes with effortless precision.
As we approached Château-Thierry, the bells began to ring, first tentative, then triumphant, echoing across the valley. It was a sound of both arrival and goodbye.
That afternoon we visited the Château-Thierry Monument and the Aisne-Marne American Cemetery, where rows of white crosses stretch over rolling green. We found markers for soldiers from New York and Montana which provided a connection to home; sunlight caught on marble names like a benediction.
Back on board, the Captain’s Dinner awaited: braised lettuce with wild asparagus and pickles, lobster tail with beurre blanc, beef with spring vegetables, a dark-chocolate truffle, and of course a final cheese plate
One guest—the husband celebrating his 50th wedding anniversary — was chosen to sabre the Champagne under Charles’s supervision, and the cork’s clean arc drew cheers. Not going to lie, I was more than a little jealous.
We toasted the crew — Charles for his impeccable guidance, Sabina for her warmth and cocktails, Rosario for his wine wisdom, Léo for artistry, and André and Julie for steering us safely through history itself. Six guests, six crew, and one memorable barge.
Life Aboard the Kir Royale
At 127 feet long, the Kir Royale feels more like an elegant country house afloat than a traditional cruise vessel. She carries just eight guests in four spacious cabins — each with the choice of king or twin beds, walk-in rain showers, double sinks, and more closet space than most Paris hotels.
We stayed in the Jeroboam cabin, a bright, comfortable refuge where I could unpack for the week, spread out, and even take a few work calls in peace.
VIDEO: Kathryn shows us around their spacious cabin, Jeroboam, below. The bathroom is HUGE!
The barge’s design invites both community and quiet: the main-deck salon holds a cozy bar, sitting area and dining room, while three outdoor decks provide endless ways to enjoy the scenery — from bow seats for watching locks open and close, to a large aft table perfect for apéritifs, to a rooftop sun lounge that opens once the canal widens. It was easy to gather for conversation or slip away with a book and a view of the water.
The Kir Royale experience is as indulgent as it is flexible. Everything is included — daily housekeeping, guided excursions, bicycles, an open bar, even coffees in town or lunch at Frerejean Frères. Guests can shape the week however they wish: join every outing or linger on deck with a glass of rosé. The crew accommodated every preference, from Ben’s aversion to mushrooms to my enthusiasm for foie gras and endless cheese. Chef Léo’s dinners were inventive and restaurant-quality, far surpassing what we’d have found in many village cafés, while Sabina’s cocktail service and Rosario’s wine and cheese pairings turned each meal into an event.
Charles coordinated it all with charm and precision, and André and Julie’s quiet mastery at the helm connected us to France’s centuries-old canal tradition. The result was pure ease — a tailor-made rhythm of luxury, discovery, and the unhurried pleasure of watching Champagne drift by one lock at a time.
VIDEO: Below is a look at what it's like to pass through a lock on the Marne; there are about 17 locks on Kir Royale's 6-night cruise.
Kir Royale's Origins
Once upon a time a Belgian barge (built in 1932) named Etoile de Champagne started her working life transporting grain through Europe. During WWII she dutifully carried allied troops until she was eventually scuttled and left to rust.
There in the banks of a river, Etoile de Champagne lay (partially submerged) until she was found and resurrected in the late 1970s, when she was refurbished and given a new life as a hotel barge.
READ MORE: Is a barge cruise for you? Here are some insights to help you decide.
READ MORE: If you're wondering what to pack for a barge cruise, Heidi shares her packing list.
READ MORE: A comparison of 13 wonderful barge cruises through our first-hand reviews.
Reflections – The Luxury of Slow Abundance on a Marne Canal Barge Cruise
Over the week I realized that barge life is paradoxically full. Exploring, tasting, biking, reading, photographing — I did it all without ever feeling rushed. The canal gave me time: time to linger over cheese, to talk with crew about their lives, to notice the way morning mist lifts off the river.
The weather changed daily — rain polishing the vineyards to silver, clouds casting lavender shadows, sunshine turning the Marne to liquid gold — and each version of Champagne felt new. Beauty here doesn’t depend on perfection; it’s constant, simply colored by the sky.
The Kir Royale isn’t for everyone. If you crave nightlife or anonymity, look elsewhere.
But for couples, close friends, and anyone who values conversation, cuisine, and quiet discovery, it’s bliss. I left lighter in luggage but richer in memories: the sound of bells, the scent of yeast and chalk, the sparkle of sunlight through bubbles.
Ben had promised I’d love it; he was right. Now I’m the one promising: next time, we’re bringing friends. Because some experiences — like Champagne itself — are meant to be shared.
Santé.
Hope You Enjoyed This Marne Canal Barge Cruise Review
A Kir Royale barge cruise starts at $9,390 per person, including all meals, wines and drinks, daily excursions and transfers to/from the barge and Paris .
For more information, visit BargeLadyCruises.com or drop us a line below and show your interest in a dreamy Kir Royale barge cruise.
VIDEO: The long lovely Kir Royale, below, as seen from a tow path along the Marne Canal.
Interested in a Barge Cruise in France?
Family-owned Barge Lady Cruises is an expert in barge cruising in France. The specialist travel agency was founded in 1985 and the Barge Lady team has sampled hundreds of barges over the years.
Barge Lady Cruises can help you choose the best canal barge cruise for your next dream vacation. Remember, barge cruises are super convenient; you won’t have to lift a finger! Pricing is all-inclusive, covering all meals, wine and spirits, guided excursions and entry fees, plus transfers to/from a central point (ie often Paris).
To show your interest in a 6-night barge cruise offered by Barge Lady Cruises, please tell us a bit more about what you’re looking for and we’ll be happy to get back to you right away.
* Your personal information will be used solely for purposes of responding to your request.
Don’t miss a post about small-ship cruising, subscribe to QuirkyCruise.com for monthly updates & special offers!
© This article is protected by copyright, no part may be reproduced by any process without written permission from the author. All Rights Reserved. QuirkyCruise.com.
HEIDI SARNA
