Swan Hellenic Antarctica Review: Robin McKelvie Shares Details About his 10-night Expedition Aboard the 192-pax Diana

Swan Hellenic Antarctica Review

by Robin McKelvie

Half a dozen gentoo penguins bounce past the Zodiac, fishing and keeping a keen watch out for predatory leopard seals. On our other flank a humpback whale breaks the surface, then disappears with a whip of its mighty tail as it plunges back into the frozen depths. Ahead of us lies a minefield of growler icebergs.

Above us is a mountain that soars to over 3,000 meters, which I doubt anyone has ever climbed, with its peaks lost in a swirl of clouds that lend it an almost impossibly dramatic air.

Welcome to small ship cruising in Antarctica.

The stunning landscape of Antarctica. * Photo: Robin McKelvie

There are many wild places in the world, but this is our only continent largely left as nature intended it. Only in the last few centuries has man even dared to venture to this frozen land and even then we’ve only really scratched the surface.

If you want to experience a true wilderness — and a destination like no other — a cruise to Antarctica is the answer.

And if you long to combine adventurous expeditions ashore with a luxurious home base, Swan Hellenic’s 192-passenger SH Diana is the small polar cruise ship for you.

The 192-passenger SH Diana. * Photo: Robin McKelvie

Swan Hellenic’s SH Diana

Swan Hellenic is an old British cruise brand that was resurrected by its new owners in 2021. They have quickly established themselves as a serious Antarctic player with luxurious cruises that offer thrilling operations ashore on the frozen continent of Antarctica. After spending 10 nights aboard I’m not surprised they have already won awards.

The largest and most modern ship in the Swan Hellenic fleet, the Finnish-built SH Diana, started cruising in 2023.

Her ice-resistant PC6 hull makes this 124.9m-long polar class 192-passenger vessel ideal for Antarctic cruising. The 127 crew ensure safe polar operations aboard a fleet of army-grade Zodiacs, as well as superb service across the nine decks.

A chic Scandinavian design edge runs through the vessel. Think smooth lines, lots of light-hued wooden furnishings and muted color schemes — as much boutique hotel as boutique ship. There is plenty of outside space too with the “Stargazing Deck” ideal for wildlife spotting.

RELATED: John Roberts review his cruise around Svalbard with Swan Hellenic.

Cabins on Swan Hellenic’s Diana

I occupied cabin #602, a 270-square-foot Balcony DC-category cabin (with balcony measuring 54 square feet). In Antarctica, it’s not really warm enough to leisurely sit outside, however the balcony is very handy for wildlife viewing.

A 270-square-foot Balcony DC-category cabin. * Photo: Swan Hellenic

My spacious stateroom had with lots of storage space, essential with cold weather gear. It was designed in muted colours and with classy wood finishes. Nice touch is the crackling artificial fire place for a cosy feel.

Cabin amenities include:

• stocked mini bar (soft drinks, beer and snacks)
• Illy Espresso coffee machine
• kettle and Ksumi tea bags
• bathrobe and slippers
• welcome bottle of Champagne
• pair of binoculars to use for wildlife viewing

RELATED: What are the main differences between Antarctic and Arctic expeditions?

Life Aboard Swan Hellenic’s Diana

Deck 4 houses the Swan Restaurant, with bountiful buffets for lunch and a la carte dinners. International comfort food like steaks and pasta dishes are always available, alongside daily specials like pork mignon, grilled sea bass and Beef Wellington. Optional salad, soup and dessert courses allow a lengthy evening meal experience after a long day exploring,

Beef Wellington aboard the SH Diana. * Photo: Robin McKelvie

Up on Deck 7, you’ll find a the main lounge and a pool bar and grill, where lighter meals are served. There is no additional charge for room service. Non-premium drinks are included in the standard all-inclusive set-up.

Deck 7 fore is also home to the large Observation Lounge, with sofas and comfortable chairs. This is where all briefings and lectures (available mainly on sea days) take place, alongside karaoke and disco nights. Afterwards each evening also has a pianist taking requests until midnight.

Down on Deck 3 is Diana’s Base Camp; it’s the hub for all operations, whether a Zodiac sightseeing excursion, Zodiac tender ashore or kayaking experience. Special insulated boots are provided for use and you’ll get an excellent Swan Hellenic branded jacket to keep.

Robin sporting the smart Swan Hellenic parka. * Photo: Robin McKelvie

There are also plans to bring in snow shoeing and cross-country skiing on future expeditions. For those so inclined, the exhilarating “Polar Plunge” into the icy waters is already an option.

Then on Deck 8, there’s a compact spa with massage treatments from the in-house Balinese therapists.

The modestly sized gym is open 24 hours. Across the corridor is an ocean-view sauna and steam room, with an exterior door opening out into the large outdoor hot tub, an excellent place to relax with a drink and watch the Antarctic mountains and whales easing by.

The sauna with a view. * Photo: Swan Hellenic

The Diana also has an enticing outdoor infinity pool, which while heated on our cruise, was not super warm; many folks hopped in for a quick selfie than focused on the lovely comfort of the hot tub.

Diana’s infinity pool. * Photo: Swan Hellenic

The Itinerary of our Antarctic Cruise

Our cruise, called Odyssey to the Antarctic Peninsula, sailed round-trip from Ushuaia, as most Antarctica cruises do. We left Ushuaia late due to very high winds and also due to the repairs that needed to be done on the cruise prior to ours. Delays and changes are not uncommon with Antarctica cruises. (In fact, in extreme weather whole cruises can even be cancelled, though rare.)

Keep in mind, most of the time throughout an Antarctica cruise is spent on board.

On our 10-night cruise, there were four days cruising along the Antarctica Peninsula with several potential opportunities for landings, weather permitting.

Here was our 10-night itinerary:

• Day 1 — Ushuaia
• Day 2 — Ushuaia/towards Drake Passage
• Day 3 — Drake Passage
• Day 4 — Drake Passage
• Day 5 — Antarctica Peninsula, day 1
• Day 6 — Antarctica Peninsula, day 2
• Day 7 — Antarctica Peninsula, day 3
• Day 8 — Antarctica Peninsula, day 4
• Day 9 — Drake Passage
• Day 10 — Drake Passage
• Day 11 — Ushuaia

The 10-night “Odyssey to the Antarctic Peninsula” cruise. * Map: Swan Hellenic

The Drake Passage

First things first. The Drake Passage, also known “Shaky Drakey,”  is a notoriously tumultuous stretch of water you have to cross to get to Antarctica from South America — it’s unavoidable. The huge swells and strong currents can make for rough crossings that test the toughest of sea legs.

That said, our cruise south was a dream, more “Drake Lake” than “Drake Shake,” with very modest swell of less than 2.5 meters, easing still further over the two day crossing.

Relaxing on deck with calm seas. * Photo Robin McKelvie

Even on the return leg the seas only strayed briefly from moderate to rough. If you’re under any doubt about your sea legs, prevention is better than cure so plan ahead with seasickness medication, bracelets and pads. Some passengers I met swore by having a couple of Moscow Mules a day, a cocktail that contains ginger ale, though I’m not convinced the alcohol would be too effective on an ailing stomach.

There is an option to fly over the Drake Passage with other operators, though the passengers on our ship felt that would be “cheating’” and would mean missing out on the drama of the slower and more exciting approach.

RELATED: Ted shares a list of the world’s roughest seas.

Antarctica Peninsula

Day 1

Our first day in Antarctica brought a Zodiac trip in whale-kissed Fournier Bay (here are some more details and excellent photos of Fournier Bay). When it’s not possible to actually make a landing on shore, the Zodiac trips allow close access to wildlife and a thrilling experience bashing along between the icebergs.

One of several Zodiac excursions. * Photo: Robin McKelvie

In the afternoon, plans were abandoned to make one stop due to ice, but as expedition leader Brandon Kleyn says “there is always a Plan B, C and D.”

Plan B proved a great choice, going ashore on Danco Island. The expedition team marked out safe routes with flags and soon I’d battled uphill to a viewpoint overlooking a penguin rookery, a fascinating insight in the lives of the gentoo penguins.

A gentoo penguin party! * Photo: Robin McKelvie

The evening saw spectacular light conditions and we spotted 20-30 humpback whales. It was an utter privilege to spend time just meters away from these majestic mammals as they spouted and fluked their tales.

One of many humpback whale sightings. * Photo: Robin McKelvie

I spent over an hour in the company of the whales on the Stargazing Deck in the most spectacular wildlife experience I’ve enjoyed in over two decades of cruising.

We also caught sight of penguins sitting on icebergs as we slowly made our way beneath hulking mountains.

The hulking mountains of Antarctica. * Photo: Robin McKelvie

Day 2

Today we arrived early off Damoy Point for a hike to an old research hut that has been brilliantly preserved as a museum that turns the clock back to 1973, when it opened as a scientific base and transit stop for the British into the Antarctic mainland. In 2023 it was repainted in its original striking bright orange color scheme. Nesting around it were more gentoos and our first Adelie penguins.

Tons of gentoo penguins to see. * Photo: Robin McKelvie

The afternoon brought sunshine and sweater weather at Port Lockroy. The old British base here is now open as a seasonal museum. They also do important research into how tourism affects the local penguins.

It was reassuring that one of the staff, Dale, insisted the cruise ships that visit had not affected penguin numbers or behavior in any significant way since the study started back in 1995. I came across my first chinstrap penguins here, as well as many more of the ubiquitous gentoos.

Day 3

Conditions were not ideal this morning in Charlotte Bay for kayaking, but the team persevered and got us on the water for half an hour before the swell started to really rise and we retreated to our support Zodiac. It was still worth it to get down to penguin height passing between icebergs. A highlight was one glacier calving a huge chunk of ice off with a thunderous roar and huge splash. The ever-aware expedition team ensured we admired this impressive natural spectacle at a safe distance.

The afternoon had the highlight of landing at Portal Point, which was named by British explorers as it formed part of the “gateway” for the route to the Antarctic Plateau.It was a special experience following in the footsteps of the great Antarctic pioneers as we battled across deep snow on two separate walks that brought more penguins and views into the expanse of this frozen continent.

Ashore in Antarctica. * Photo: Robin McKelvie

Day 4

It was time to head north now to land on the South Shetland Islands, with more minke whales and a large number of humpback whales on the early morning approach. I saw whales each day, including the Drake Passage.

Deception Island thrilled with more mountainous scenery and the history of the old whaling station, then British base here.

The afternoon saw another landing in the South Shetland Islands, which are still within Antarctica. This time Half Moon Bay tempted with snowy walks and spectacular wildlife. I witnessed the brutal battle between a great skua and a gentoo penguin, the predatory bird triumphing and flying off with its prize of a cherished penguin egg.

Wildlife abounded on our cruise at every turn.

Antarctic fur seals on the South Shetland Islands. * Photo: Robin McKelvie

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Fares & Tips

Itineraries/Fares

Robin traveled on Swan Hellenic’s 10-night Antarctic Peninsula Odyssey cruise, departing and returning to Ushuaia, the southernmost city in Argentina and South America. Fares for this cruise in 2026 start at about $11,980 USD per person (based on two sharing) and include internal return flights from Buenos Aires to Ushuaia to join the ship.

Cruise fares include:

• non-premium wine, beer and spirits
• excursions
• use of the sauna and steam room
• room service
• tipping is also included

Packing Pointers

Swan Hellenic gifts every one a warm parka that you can take home. Pack layers that are easy to put on and take off, as one minute you’re in a steamy Base Camp and the next bouncing around on a chilly Zodiac. You also heat up quickly walking ashore through heavy snow.

Pack two of everything too as you’ll definitely get wet, like hats and gloves, as Swan Hellenic aim to get you off the ship a couple of times a day and you don’t ever want to put back on damp gear.

Don’t forget to bring sunglasses, lip balm with sunscreen and sun lotion. The temperatures may be freezing, but the sun, reflected off water and snow, can be brutal.

Excursion Tip

Sign up for kayaking asap as spots on our cruise were limited, which, coupled with the weather conditions that warranted cancelling some trips, meant some passengers were disappointed. It’s worth checking last minute if you’re signed up for the waiting list, as last minute spots can become available if a guest chooses not to go, leaving a seat in the two-person kayak that has to be filled.

While there aren’t all that many landings (excursions where you’re actually walking/hiking on land) offered on an Antarctica cruise, the main event is the scenery seen from the ship and on Zodiac rides. * Photo: Robin McKelvie

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Hope You Enjoyed This Swan Hellenic Antarctica Review

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