C’est La Vie Barge Cruise Review (2026): Luxury Canal Cruising Through France’s Champagne Region

C’est La Vie Barge Cruise Review

By Molly Hottinger, with images and videos by Len Kaufman

From the moment I stepped aboard the C’est La Vie for a 6-night journey on the tranquil banks of the Marne River and the Canal Latéral à la Marne, I knew the Champagne region was an ideal setting for my introduction to luxury French barge cruising.

Travel photographer Len Kaufman and I chose C’est La Vie’s Champagne itinerary this past July for its blend of legendary vineyards, medieval towns and tranquil waterways, far from the summer bustle of Paris.

C’est La Vie's Onboard Experience & Amenities

The luxurious hotel barge C’est La Vie is 128 feet (38.77 m) long and 16 feet (5.05 m) wide. Accommodating eight passengers, the barge is crewed by six.

Salon, Dining Area & Sun Deck

Every detail of the onboard experience aboard this French barge cruise is designed for comfort, relaxation, and French hospitality.

The C’est La Vie’s saloon serves as the main dining and social hub, featuring a full bar, panoramic windows, and a communal table that encourages conversation. In the adjacent sitting area, two facing leather couches are great for conversation, while the glass coffee table has picture albums from previous cruises.

The barge’s rich teak paneling and trim, polished brass, and elegant furnishings create a classic maritime feel with an inviting ambiance. The shaded sun deck was the other spot on board for socializing, enjoyment of quiet moments, and watching the passing scenery.

Bicycles are neatly arranged on the bow. A few passengers discussed whether they impede the view or not. I thought they looked sporty and ready for adventure.

READ MORE: The highlights and differences of France's 5 main cruising canals.

CHECK OUT THIS VIDEO: Below, Len shares his video montage of the entire trip, the 6-night C'est La Vie barge cruise as well as the pre/post Paris stays.

Private Cabins Designed for Comfort

C’est La Vie features cabins arranged fore and aft, while the crew quarters are at the stern. The half-turn staircase is quite steep, requiring extra caution for passengers.

Relatively large cabins (at about 230 sq ft) have small windows that allow natural light in. Other amenities include generous storage, two bedside tables with reading lamps with outlets, a large double wardrobe with a full-length mirror, and a chest of drawers that help keep personal belongings organized.

A writing desk provides a convenient spot for electronics and journaling and the daily itinerary is included in a binder on the desk. Plush terry-cloth robes and soft linens add a touch of indulgence, while a Bluetooth sound system is included for entertainment. A sideboard has a carafe of water and glasses that the staff replaces daily.

The ensuite bathroom is spacious and includes a roomy corner shower with waterjets, heated towel racks, and clever storage in the marble-top vanity with shelving to keep essentials within reach. There are also 220-volt outlets above the vanity.

VIDEO: Below, Molly shows us around their C'est La Vie cabin, #3.

C’est La Vie Itinerary Review

Sunday: Arrival & First Impressions

Château-Thierry, the gateway to the Champagne region and home to the medieval Château de Thierry castle, was the starting point for the week's nearly 60-mile journey. Before the welcome reception that first afternoon, we took a leisurely stroll across a nearby bridge and along the Marne River, spotting a flock of swans.

The next morning, our cruise began on the navigable stretch of the Marne River, and then shortly after departing, we transitioned from the Marne River onto the Canal Latéral à la Marne because the upper Marne River becomes un-navigable. The canal forms the majority of our barge journey through the heart of France’s Champagne region.

A Welcome Toast

Stepping back on board the C’est La Vie, I was enchanted by the colorful floral arrangements, a welcoming backdrop as the crew served cocktails from the open bar.

Carefully curated French touches added charm, such as a bookshelf with titles on French culture and history, wine glasses adorned with fleur-dis-lis motifs, and dinnerware crafted and fired in a nearby factory and painted with grape hyacinths, all subtle nods to the Champagne region’s rich French heritage.

We gathered for a welcome toast with the crew, led by Captain Tom Mégret, in the elegant saloon and dining area, part of the barge’s thoughtful refurbishment by the Mégret family in 2011. We raised our glasses of Champagne, a warm introduction to French hospitality.

Gourmet French Dining on Our C’est La Vie Barge Cruise

Dining on this luxury French barge combines fine cuisine, regional wines, and an intimate onboard atmosphere. Gourmet meals aboard C’est La Vie were plated and served by an attentive crew around a beautifully set rectangular table, creating an intimate experience that felt like dining in a French country home.

Seating against the wall was slightly cramped, allowing just enough space for the crew to serve wine and cheese.

Our first night’s candlelit dinner, introduced by Chef Graham, featured pork fillet with beetroot hummus, sautéed new potatoes, petit pois, and peppercorn sauce.

Sharing meals with fellow passengers, including Deb and Ken, and their friends David and Julie, all from Connecticut — who had sailed on the C’est La Vie previously — makes each dining experience a wonderful way to recap the day’s excursions and connect with new friends, including Glenn and Mary from Boston. It turns out that Len, a longtime Floridian, grew up only a stone’s throw away from our new Connecticut friends, which added to the onboard camaraderie.

Wine & Cheese Courses

French wine and cheese courses at each lunch and dinner were masterfully presented by First Mate Carrie along with hostesses Mallaury and Meryl.

We learned from them how France’s natural elements help shape wines curated by our chef, from the land where the grapes are grown to the climate that influences each wine’s flavor profile.

During the week, it was fun learning more about these ladies: Carrie’s enjoyment of Pink Floyd’s music, Mallaury’s witty humor and passion for cooking, and Meryl’s adventurous traveling spirit.

READ MORE: Here are 15 barge cruises to consider. 

READ MORE: Heidi reviews her River Thames barge cruise on the Magna Carta.

READ MORE: France's 5 top canal barge cruising regions.

READ MORE: Heidi reviews her splendid barge cruise on the Nivernais Canal aboard the 12-pax Luciole. 

Our C’est La Vie Barge Cruise, Day-By-Day

Monday: Military Monuments & Transiting Our First Lock

We set sail this morning from Château-Thierry to Dormans while enjoying our first breakfast aboard. Fresh-baked breads are served in baskets on the table, while the sideboard includes a range of options, from fresh fruits arranged like a colorful kaleidoscope to cheeses and meats, yogurts, and dried dates.

Scrambled eggs were made on order by the chef. Each morning, there was a ‘ceremonial’ gathering at what a few passengers said was an overly complicated coffee machine to discuss which combination of buttons would produce the perfectly brewed coffee.

After breakfast, we enjoyed the fresh morning air as Champagne’s tree-lined riverscapes, rolling hills, and vineyards unfolded before us with each gentle curve of the Marne. We transited the first of several locks we would pass through on our cruise.

Each meal is prepared and introduced by Chef Graham, with Monday’s lunch being a standout: shrimp with butter and garlic, quiche with caramelized onions, and a tomato salad.

Excitement buzzed around the table as everyone began discussing the sea asparagus in the salad. Harvested from coastal shorelines and tidal flats, its lightly salty flavor was delicious.

Afternoon Excursions: Introduction to Guided Sightseeing in France

In the afternoon, we visited the Château-Thierry American Monument. Overlooking Château-Thierry, it commemorates the achievements of US forces in the region in WWI, and symbolizes the enduring ties between France and the United States. Sofiane passed around red umbrellas as a light sprinkle began to fall between sunny skies.

Next, we visited the Aisne-Marne American Cemetery, a pilgrimage site for U.S. Marines. Looking upward, a light breeze rustled through the densely wooded Belleau Wood — a serene setting far removed from June 1918, when U.S. Marines and Allied forces, as part of a larger effort, stopped the German advance toward Paris during the Battle of Belleau Wood.

Dinner

At dinner, everyone remarked about our knowledgeable guides and Sofiane’s mastery in coordinating our excursions, even anticipating the rain. Chef Graham delighted everyone’s taste buds with oven-roasted pigeon, accompanied by sweet corn purée, charred sweet corn, and salted popcorn.

At dinner, French wines were ceremoniously presented to the principal taster at the table (a different guest each meal); every bottle met with enthusiastic approval.

Tuesday: Dormans to Damery

Morning Bike Ride Along the Marne River Towpath

After breakfast, a few of us enjoyed a bike ride along the towpath with a plan to meet back up with the C’est La Vie at the Damery lock. We were set free with only one bit of advice: don’t take the gravel path (the towpath is paved for much of the way, and other times it's a muddy gravel trail).

We peddled at a leisurely pace while soaking up Champagne’s scenic landscapes, passing cornfields and stopping in a small village to take photos beneath a weeping willow tree. When the path meandered close to the shoreline, we cycled alongside the C’est La Vie.

These paved towpaths were originally constructed in the mid-19th century to allow horses and mules to tow barges along the Marne River and the Canal Latéral à la Marne, long before engines transformed river transport in the late 1800s and early 1900s.

Exploring Épernay: Avenue of Champagne, Dom Pérignon’s Abbey, House of Boizel

We enjoyed lunch on the sun deck en route to Épernay. Along the way (in Cumières), the riverside comes alive with the metal sculptures of villagers by Eric Sléziak, depicting traditional vineyard work, Champagne-making, and tasting.

When we arrived at Épernay, Sofiane drove us up into the vineyards where we enjoyed picturesque hilltop views.

Then we headed to town to explore the famed Avenue de Champagne, often called “the most expensive avenue in the world,” where hundreds of millions of bottles are stored in cool, humid chalk cellars beneath the street.

This iconic avenue is home to world-renowned producers, including Moët & Chandon, Perrier-Jouët, Mercier, Pol Roger, and the family-owned Champagne House of Boizel.

We visited the Abbey of Hautvillers, where Dom Pérignon spent much of his life as a Benedictine monk. Founded in 650 AD, the abbey reflects a blend of Romanesque and early Gothic architectural styles. Dom Pérignon’s pioneering work in grape blending and early bottling techniques helped refine the sparkling wine process, the foundation for Champagne enjoyed across the world today.

Next, we headed to Boizel where we enjoyed a tour that took us through the famed chalk cellars, stopping to see a collection of vintage champagne bottles dating back to 1834 behind a locked gate. Our tour concluded with a tasting.

Afterward, we explored Parc Pierre Cheval, with its whimsical statue of Dom Pérignon, then strolled along the avenue, stopping to admire Champagne houses and their ornate gates.

Evening Walk & Damery Bridge

After dinner and a golden sunset, we took an evening walk in the dark across the Damery Bridge to photograph the C’est La Vie framed by blue reflections from the bridge and the steeple of St. Maria’s Church. On the opposite side of the bridge, a monument celebrates the local French Resistance during World War II.

Wednesday: Artisan Chocolates & French Château Dining

Morning Chocolate Workshop

After a delicious breakfast, we visited La Chocolaterie Thibaut, where a master chocolatier taught us the technique for preparing chocolate to make our own champagne-cork-shaped chocolates. It was a fun and engaging activity, which seemed to be enjoyed by all. We sampled chocolates and purchased goodies to take home from the gift shop.

Afternoon Bike Ride & Towpaths

There is always plenty of time to relax between activities. In the afternoon, Len and I took an enjoyable bike ride along the towpath, where we passed several friendly locals. While passing a bridge, I saw a painting of a hedgehog with a blue cornflower.

The blue cornflower (Bleuet de France) is a French symbol of remembrance, originating on the battlefields of WWI (similar to the poppy in Britain and the Commonwealth), while native hedgehogs are highly regarded as wise, resilient creatures in European folklore. The paths are marked but can be confusing as they stop and start along the trail in small towns.

Rides are tranquil and a great way to get some exercise, though there’s not much time to sightsee as you have to meet back up with the barge at the next lock.

French Château Dining at Domaine Les Crayères

This evening, we enjoyed a 2-star Michelin dining experience at Le Parc (included in the fares), nestled in the historic 19th-century French château, Les Crayères. Once owned by the Pommery family, under Madame Louise Pommery’s leadership, Brut Champagne was born here in 1874. This drier, more refined style highlights Champagne’s terroir: its diverse climates, chalky soils, cool microclimates and distinctive vineyard locations.

Before dinner, we gathered for cocktails in the sunroom, which is adjacent to Les Crayères' La Rotunde Bar, a cozy space decorated with rich mahogany and tartan armchairs. Dinner featured service à la cloche, where dishes are revealed simultaneously under round lids, adding an elegant and theatrical touch.

It was a pleasure to have Sofiane join us for dinner. Having his ear, our group collectively said how nice it was to have his company, adding that we'd all love if the crew spent more time with the guests. We also asked if a crew member could staff the bar continually during the pre-dinner hours.

Thursday: Reims Cathedral & Sightseeing

Morning Cruise & Vineyards

During our morning cruise, we relaxed on the deck after breakfast, passing vineyards that surround the village of Tours-sur-Marne, a tranquil start to the day.

Reims Cathedral: Where French Kings Were Crowned

As Deb and Julie set off for a girls’ shopping day in Reims, a few of us headed to Reims Cathedral (Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Reims) with our expert guide Sofiane.

A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the cathedral is a stunning example of High Gothic architecture, adorned with 2,300 statues on the exterior, including the Smiling Angel statue. Damaged when the church was bombed in WWI and later restored, it remains an enduring emblem of the city.

Inside, soaring ceilings and stained-glass windows were breathtaking. Many of France’s kings were crowned here between 816 and 1825, including Charles VII, escorted by Joan of Arc in 1429. At the rear of the church, colorful windows by Marc Chagall were illuminated by the afternoon sun.

To cap off our Reims visit, we explored the town’s lively shopping arcades and plazas, including Place Drouet d’Erlon, with its whimsical fountain resembling a dandelion, and Fontaine Subé, celebrating the four major rivers of the Marne department.

Dinner & Evening Stroll

For dinner, we enjoyed seared scallops with cauliflower purée, toasted hazelnuts, and crisp green apple, followed by roasted duck breast with sweet potatoes, oyster mushrooms, perfectly paired with Côte de Grisey, a Burgundy Red from Domaine Alain Mathias. Dessert was a rich cherry soufflé with chocolate.

Afterward, Len and I took an evening stroll along the canal, enjoying the lush forest and wildflowers.

Friday: Champagne Tasting in a Summer Garden at Ployez-Jacquemart

This morning, we experienced the warm hospitality of Ployez-Jacquemart. Just 90 minutes from Paris (and about a 40-minute drive from our barge), this family-run estate in Ludes is celebrated for its artisanal approach to champagne production. Hosted by Charles Blanchot, we began our tour at the traditional wine press, learning about the process of hand-picking grapes at harvest time, pressing, fermenting, and aging.

The bottles are stored in two levels of chalk cellars, where cool temperatures allow the champagne to mature.

Our visit concluded with a champagne tasting overlooking a sun-soaked garden and a spirited conversation with Charles about the champagne business and his passion for preserving its place in France’s cultural heritage. Glenn remarked that his tour was the highlight of the week — and all of us wholeheartedly agreed.

Saturday: Chalon-en-Champagne & Captain’s Dinner

After exploring the lively streets of Chalon-en-Champagne, our final evening onboard was hosted by Captain Tom. Two red taper candles set in silver holders on the dining table added to the elegant atmosphere, while Chef Graham ended on a high note with filet of Limousin (a French breed of beef cattle) beef, charred to order, accompanied by baby carrots, and a dramatic finale of flaming Baked Alaska.

Why Choose a Champagne Cruise Aboard the C’est La Vie?

For travelers seeking guided sightseeing in France, gourmet French dining, and Champagne’s scenic landscapes, a C’est La Vie barge cruise is the Mégret family’s invitation to slow down and savor the French art of living.

From the beauty of the Marne River and Canal to the flavors of France in each gourmet dining experience, paired with the sparkling delights of Champagne, each day brought new discoveries.

C’est La Vie’s deliberately unhurried pace allows passengers to fully enjoy the scenery, while also soaking up the history of the places visited. Every moment onboard and ashore was elevated by the crew’s exceptional service, reflecting the Mégret family’s dedication to luxury, culture, and authentic French hospitality.

READ ANOTHER CHAMPAGNE REVIEW: Here's a review of the 8-pax Kir Royale, which also does the Marne Canal/River in France's Champagne region.

Pre- & Post-Cruise Stay in Paris

Before embarking C’est La Vie, we spent a few days in Paris, visiting the Tuileries Garden and the Palais Garnier (Opéra Garnier), where we sat directly beneath the magnificent seven-ton chandelier to admire Chagall’s colorful dreamlike masterpiece celebrating five composers. This was a prelude to visiting the stained-glass windows Chagall designed for the Cathedral of Reims, which we would visit in Reims.

We stayed at Hôtel Aston Paris, a 3-star boutique-style hotel centrally located in the 9th arrondissement; an ideal spot to experience local Parisian life, being close to landmark destinations. Interestingly, Chopin once lived at Cité Bergère, just a few doors away from the hotel.

At the end of the cruise we returned to Paris. Staying in Montmartre, we saw the Tour de France and witnessed a spectacle of French pride as thousands of spectators filled the streets, in anticipation for the famed peloton to race through Montmartre’s hilly terrain to the finish line. We stayed at the 3-star Hotel Audran, set along the lively Rue des Abbesses, in the heart of Montmartre; the street is lined with quaint cafés, boutique shops, and a vibrant local atmosphere that captures its unique Bohemian charm.

We explored Île de la Cité, the oldest and most historic area of Paris, enjoying Notre Dame and scenic views of the Seine River and surrounding bridges at sunset. Other highlights included rooftop views from Galleries Lafayette, Arc de Triomphe, and Musée d’Orsay. We returned several times to the quai next to the iconic Pont Alexandre III, a favorite spot at sunset for views of the bridge, Eiffel Tower, and bateaux-mouches gliding along the Seine River. Traveling by train outside of Paris, we explored the quaint riverside village of Moret-sur-Loing, where Alfred Sisley, and other notable impressionists painted its picturesque scenery.

Interested in This C’est La Vie Barge Cruise?

Hope you enjoyed my C’est La Vie barge cruise review. All-inclusive fares start at $9,000 per person. If you're still wondering if a barge cruise is right for you, here are some tips and guidelines.

If you're interested in booking a C'est La Vie barge cruise, whether one cabin or details on full-charters for family and friend groups, kindly show your interest via the form below and a Barge Lady Cruises representative will be in touch soon.

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Travel Writer Molly Hottinger focuses on luxury travel experiences, drawing on her maritime transportation and aviation background and lifelong passion for travel. She contributes editorial content for major global travel brands and has also written for various luxury publications. 

Len Kaufman is a Florida-based travel and commercial photographer and videographer whose work has taken him to 93 countries. An SATW member, his images have appeared in The New York Times, Travel +Leisure, and The Washington Post, and in campaigns for cruise lines, airlines, and tourism boards. Check out Len’s YouTube channel.

 

 

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