Murray River Steamboat Cruise on the adorable Marion

Murray River Steamboat Cruise.

Introduction by Ted Scull.

Steamboats have plied Australia’s Murray River since the mid-19th century. Today steamers range from wood-fired antiques, the topic of this report below, to modern replica sternwheelers. A handful make overnight cruises lasting from just two days and up to a week.

Murray River Steamboat Cruise aboard the historic Marion

Murray Princess. * Photo: Murray River Cruises

At landings along the way in the states of South Australia and Victoria, additional paddlers make day trips. In total, the Murray River basin boasts the world’s largest fleet of paddle steamers. Both the author of the featured cruise, William Worden, and I have additionally explored more of this fascinating navigable river — Australia’s longest by far — by car.

The cruise report, “Two Nights in the Museum,” provides the introduction to the subject, and here’s a link to additional Murray River trip options. 

The birds and animals, some peculiar to Australia and the Murray River, make for happy hunting.

Murray River Steamboat Cruise map

Map of the Lower River Murray. * Photo: Ted Scull

Two Nights in the Museum

By William Worden

Australia’s Murray River offers several opportunities for cruises, but one is unique: the chance to cruise aboard a museum. The paddle steamer Marion, launched in 1897 as a barge, was converted into a steamer in 1900. She was altered several times and achieved her present form by the mid-1930s, with three decks of accommodations for a maximum of 25 overnight passengers.

She cruised until 1952 when Murray Shipping, Ltd. liquidated and she became a houseboat. The National Trust of Australia bought her in 1963 and she steamed “one last trip” to Mannum, where she served as a static museum for several decades.

In 1989 it was decided that the best way to preserve the Marion was to restore her to operation. After much volunteer labor, Marion returned to steam in 1994.

Murray River Steamboat Cruise on the adorable Marion

Paddle steamer Marion. * Photo: William Worden

A Murray River Steamboat Cruise Based in Mannum

She remains based at Mannum, South Australia and runs day excursions as well as a few multi-night cruises every year.

Marion is a museum piece, preserved as she was in her heyday; luxury is not on tap. Her appeal is not in slick décor, but in the more fundamental pleasure of shipwright carpentry, the kind of appeal most of us find in simple, well-made, solid constructions of wood.

Cabins are typical of the time, about seven feet square with an upper and lower bunk, a small cabinet and shelf, a straight chair and hooks for hanging clothes. Suitcases fit under the bunks, and we packed light for our two-night trip.

Toilets and showers are down the open deck, positioned over the paddle boxes. There is a second deck forward lounge (with bar), and the former smoking saloon on the third deck aft (smoking is not permitted on this all-wood museum piece). The dining saloon is aft on the main deck. Pilot house and engine spaces are open to all to observe and inquire.

Typical of the Murray River boats, Marion’s engine is a Marshall “portable” engine and boiler from England. Originally set on wheels, it had its undercarriage removed and then was placed in the hull. Because the engine runs too fast for paddlewheels, there is a big gear and pinion reduction.

Marion is wood-fired and the wood bunker and the fire hold are open for passenger observation. Pilot house equipment is limited to a big steering wheel (Armstrong power steering), a throttle, and a speaking tube to communicate with the engineer down below.

Murray River Steamboat Cruise aboard the wood-fired Marion

P.S. Marion uses wood for fuel. * Photo: William Worden

100% Volunteer

The crew of the Marion is 100% volunteer. Without exception, they live up to the Australian reputation for informality and friendliness. Their love for their boat is worn on their sleeves. They go out of their way to make a cruise on her pleasant because her cruises raise money that helps to preserve her. Further, one and all, shy and gregarious, they seem to genuinely like their passengers.

Breakfast, lunch and dinner are served in the dining saloon, while a modest baked sweet is laid out for morning and afternoon tea in the lounge. Home cooking is the standard. If the word “gourmet” would not come to mind, “substantial,” “excellently-prepared” and “delicious” certainly would.

The bar in the lounge is stocked with a range of soft drinks, beers, ales, and ciders, as well as stronger alcoholic beverages.

Dining room on a Murray River Steamboat Cruise

Dining room aboard P.S. Marion. * Photo: William Worden

Entertainment is largely self-provided. A couple of very interesting videos about Murray River steamers were played in the lounge. One evening, the purser led games: a form of darts with Velcro instead of sharp points and, believe it or not, blindfolded pin-the-tail-on-the-donkey. This seemed lame at the outset, but ended up in tears-down-the-cheeks laughter.

The lounge aboard the Murray River Steamboat Cruise vessel Marion.

Views to all sides from the lounge. * Photo: William Worden

Murray River Steamboat Cruise Itineraries

Scenery varies according to the Marion’s route for a specific cruise. Ours, from Goolwa, where the Murray spills into the Southern Ocean, to Mannum, began in some narrower channels leading to the crossing of Lake Alexandrina, a part of a large protected wetland.

Bird life is abundant on the crossing, both familiar types like pelicans and species unique to Australia. At Wellington, the steamer reached the river proper. We spent the night at Murray Bridge; some found a pub. We did a little shopping.

Murray River Cruise

Nankeen Night Heron

The morning found us upbound again in a narrower stretch of the river where limestone cliffs had been carved by millennia of flowing water. We arrived at Mannum, Marion’s home, not long after noon. After saying our regretful good-byes to Marion, her crew, and our new-found Australian friends, we visited the river museum and then headed off by car up the Murray. There we would experience short day trips on some of the other preserved steamers that proudly sail on Australia’s longest river.

The outside decks of the historic Marion, a Murray River Steamboat Cruise

Cabins open to a side deck. * Photo: William Worden

The Marion’s cruise itineraries vary in direction and length depending on the river events she visits. Ours was one of a pair of two-night sailings to and from the South Australian Wooden Boat Festival at Goolwa, a trip she seems to make every year in late April.

In the fall (Australian spring!) of 2019, she will make a similar pair of two-night trips upbound from Mannum to Morgan, a trip which, the crew assured me, is more scenic. In other years, she has offered cruises as long as eight nights when visiting very distant events.

The tied up Marion, a Murray River Steamboat Cruise

P.S. Marion ties up at night. * Photo: William Worden

The years’ schedule is posted early each year on the website:

To learn more about three additional sternwheelers with overnight accommodations and year-round cruises — Murray Princess, Proud Mary, Emmylou — see our QuirkyCruise Murray River Cruises review. or contact Murray River Cruises directly.

QuirkyCruise Review



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charming older ships

Charming Older Ships

By Ted Scull.

When you are young, you might think something old is not cool and worse, maybe even inferior. Today, with technology changing so fast, it is hard to keep up with what is the newest. And does new automatically mean it is better than something tried and true?

At a relatively early age, I learned what I liked about ships, and most I first encountered were not new, rather middle-aged and beyond. When traveling to and from Nantucket every summer beginning at age eight, the boats we boarded at Woods Hole on the Cape were built before the Great Depression. I loved their old-fashioned stateliness and piercing steam whistle announcing departures and arrivals.

When I went aboard my inaugural transatlantic liner as a teenager, the ship was built well before WWII. At first sight, she was ever so majestic with two tall stacks and with a graceful curve to her hull profile. Her interiors recalled lovely grand hotels I knew in New York and Philadelphia.

In our QuirkyCruise world, I have discussed some of the stately sail-powered tall ships we cover that had early lives as workaday ships rather than as pleasure craft. When their first careers ended because of more modern steamship technology, they found new work as wind-jamming cruise ships, saving them for posterity.

With a handful of engined-powered vessels chosen from our 80-plus reviews, let’s start with those that are old in age and look old. Through many eyes, their presence are distinct reminders of another era when ships like this were commonplace.

charming older ships

VIC 32 – Coal-fired Clyde Puffer takes up to 12 passengers amongst the Scottish isles. * Photo: Puffer Steamboat Holidays

Puffer Steamboat Holidays

Let’s take the tiny Clyde Puffer VIC 32 dating from 1943. She represents an authentic example of a hardworking coal-fired cargo carrier that once numbered in the hundreds, taking aboard almost everything that needed transporting between the Scottish mainland and the islands. VIC 32 and many of her fleet mates even looked old when newly built in the 1940s, as they largely drew on 19th-century design and technology.

While a half-dozen are still afloat, VIC 32 owned by the Puffer Preservation Trust, is the only one taking overnight cruise passengers (12), with additional cabin accommodations occupying space once allocated to freight. Passengers may try their hand at shoveling coal into the furnace and steering the vessel along canals and into scenic lochs.

charming older ships

VIC 32 negotiates a flight of locks en route across Scotland. * Photo: Puffer Steamboat Holidays

Gota Canal Steamship Company

In Sweden, the Gota Canal is a highly scenic 382-mile cross-country waterway constructed in the early 19th century. It connects the capital Stockholm with Gothenburg, the country’s second largest city, using connecting rivers and lakes with the undulating countryside conquered by flights of locks.

The three boats are historic treasures, full of charm and purpose-built to transit the canal, a truly memorable way to see Sweden’s countryside and small towns. The oldest, Juno, was completed in 1874, with Wilhelm Tham following in 1912 and Diana, the newest, dating from 1931.

The boats’ steam engines have long since been replaced by diesels, and the accommodations upgraded for additional comforts, while they retain their heritage look

Read QuirkyCruise co-founder Heidi’s account of her excellent Juno adventure a few summers ago.

charming older ships

Juno sailing across Sweden via the Gota Canal. * Photo: Heidi Sarna


In Alaska, AdventureSmith operates the 12-passenger Sea Wolf, first completed in 1941 as the USS Observer, a US Navy minesweeper used for protecting San Francisco Bay. When the 97-foot wooden vessel was decommissioned, she was taken on as a private yacht and ultimately joined the AdventureSmith cruise fleet in 2003.

She operates with a fiercely loyal crew of 5 to 6, and her small size and rugged build allows her to poke around almost anywhere in the Alaska Panhandle.

charming older ships

Sea Wolf cruises Alaska’s panhandle. * Photo: AdventureSmith

The next three companies operate ships that were built over 50 years ago. While they do not necessarily appear old-fashioned, they exude the distinct character of another age.

Hebridean Island Cruises

In Scotland, Hebridean Island Cruises operates a single ship, the 2,112-ton Hebridean Princess, in the manner of a Scottish country house, building on the conversion of a 1964-built car ferry with overnight accommodations.

While the handsome profile remains largely intact, the interior spaces have been remodeled for up to 49 passengers. They occupy cabins that are not numbered but charmingly named after Scottish castles, isles, lochs, and sounds, and each one is individually decorated.

The original observation lounge is fitted with a brick and timber fireplace and flanked by two small side lounges, one serving as the library and the other a cozy setting for afternoon tea or pre-dinner drinks. The Columba Restaurant operates like in a country hotel where couples dine at their own table, friends traveling together at larger ones, and singles fraternize with the officers.

charming older ships

Hebridean Princess’ conversion saved her original profile. * Photo: Hebridean Island Cruises


Along the Norwegian Coast, the Hurtigruten cargo and passenger service operates daily from Bergen in the south to just beyond the North Cape, calling at over three dozen ports in each direction. Of the dozen ships that hold down the route, one dates from 1965 in the manner of many ships that came before dating back to the 1890s.

The said ship is the Lofoten named for an island archipelago sited off the Norwegian Coast. She measures just 2,621 tons compared to her fleet mates that range up to 16,151 tons. While they all use ramps for loading and unloading the cargo by forklift or driving it onto a vehicle deck, the Lofoten, in the old-fashioned way, crane-loads the cargo stacked on wooden pallets from the pier into the forward hold.

Watching the action is a joyful part of traveling aboard this vessel.

Her public rooms are utterly charming with two forward lounges for reading, playing board and card games and viewing the coastal mountains and seascape ahead, and an aft lounge bar featuring a lovely collection of paintings of earlier ships. She is a true time warp from the 1960s.

charming older ships

Lofoten working cargo north of the Arctic Circle. * Photo: Ted Scull

Alaska Marine Highway

A trio of ships belonging to the Alaska Marine Highway, a vehicle, freight, and passenger carrier that links the Lower 48 states via the inside Passage to Southeast Alaska, and South-Central Alaska to the Aleutian Island chain.

While the Malaspina, Matanuska and Tustumena do not look old inside or out, they are a fine testimony to American shipbuilding, 55 years later providing necessary service to cities and towns with no road access to the outside world.

charming older ships

Malaspina, named after an Alaskan glacier, dates from 1963. * Photo: Ted Scull

Over the decades I have sailed with or at least been aboard all these ships, apart from the Sea Wolf, which I have seen in passing. It’s a lovely collection you might consider when you next want to go exploring.


To recap, here are our favorite ❤️ charming oldies!


Alaska Marine Highway

Gota Canal Steamboat Company

Hebridean Island Cruises


Puffer Steamboat Holidays


quirkycruise bird


QuirkyCruise is sharing the small-ship love. ENTER our cruise giveaway to win a free Caribbean cruise for 2 with Island Windjammers, one of our favorite quirky lines! 



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N.B. Part of Brixham’s heritage fleet is to be sold after The Trinity Sailing Foundation, a charity which has taken thousands of disadvantaged people to sea for 20 years, announced it has to cease current operations and redefine its mission. The Brixham-based charity’s three historic vessels — Leader (1892), Provident (1924), and Golden Vanity (1908) — will be sold after the charity said that changing conditions in recent years mean its previous operating model is no longer viable. If any further details about the future of the three historic ships become available, the news will appear here. Sad news indeed.


Trinity Sailing operates a fleet of three historic gaff-rigged sailing ships based primarily in Brixham, still an important South Devon fishing port, and also a tourist attraction thanks to the lovely setting. The fleet also cruises from other ports along the south coast of England, and up in Scotland for exploring the Western Isles.

Trinity Sailing

Brixham sailing trawlers with Leader (left) and Provident (right). * Photo: Trinity Sailing

In addition, the firm operates a foundation, a registered charity founded in 1999, taking 600 children annually from all backgrounds, including the disadvantaged, on sail training cruises where they learn teamwork, develop skills that they did not know they had, gain confidence in themselves and make new friends. The website provides more information and videos illustrating this important program.

Sail the scenic coastal waters around Britain aboard wooden sail-powered former Brixham fishing trawlers that take 7 to 12 passengers. Built on the River Dart in South Devon between 1892 and 1924, the cruises begin at one or two nights and then on up to a week or more. In the late 19th century, these fast sailing vessels once formed the backbone of Britain’s most important fishing fleet.


Trinity Sailing

Three crew aboard the Leader. * Photo: Trinity Sailing

Ships, Year Delivered & Passengers

LEADER built 1892, two masts, 12 passengers; PROVIDENT built 1924, two masts, 12 passengers; GOLDEN VANITY built 1908, one mast, 7 passengers.

Passenger Decks

Just two and no elevators (after all, these are historic sailing ships).

Passenger Profile

British, other Europeans, Australians, Americans, and Canadian of all ages.


$ or approximately $130 per day


Operating season is end of March to late September.

  • Brittany (France) & Channel Islands (6-12 nights from Brixham).
  • Devon & Cornwall (1-9 nights from Brixham & Falmouth).
  • Dorset & Isle of Wight (6 nights from Poole); Isles of Scilly (6 nights from Falmouth).
  • West Coast of Scotland (6, 9 & 10 nights from Oban) with the first departure of the year from Falmouth and last ending at Falmouth.

Vessels are available for charter.

Trinity Sailing

Brixham heritage trawler in the River Dart, Dartmouth in Devon. * Photo: Trinity Sailing

Included Features

Excursions, sail training, meals, snacks between meals, and soft drinks.

Why Go?

Cruise in an historic wooden sailing vessel (a Brixham trawler) that once numbered in the thousands, and now just a few remain as heritage vessels. Share the experience with up to 12 like-minded adventurers who come for the sailing experience, coastal and island scenery, specific destinations to explore, and camaraderie. Anchor at night in a sheltered location, sail for part of the day and then go ashore. The skipper will lay out the day every morning at breakfast.

Trinity Sailing

Skipper Toni Knights may host art sessions during the cruise.

When to Go?

The season begins at the end of March and continues into late September.


PROVIDENT has three double cabins with upper and lower berths, and a cabin for four in the fore peak. LEADER offers open dormitory-style accommodation for 12 passengers (with privacy curtains), and same for GOLD VANITY, which sleeps seven. All three offer shared toilets and hot showers.

Public Rooms

A saloon serves as the lounge and dining room, with additional space to hang out on the open decks.


Food is sourced locally at the embarkation ports and en route the emphasis is on fresh seafood and Britain’s bounty. A typical lunch would be a cold meat platter, with cheeses, salad and freshly baked bread, while for dinner, expect something the likes of freshly-caught Brixham fish, such as Hake or Lemon Sole, served with potatoes and vegetables followed by a crème brulle. (Reports indicate glowing satisfaction!) A bar on board stocks wine, beer and cider for purchase; soft drinks are included in the fares.

Trinity Sailing

Fresh oysters while enjoying a cruise on a former Brixham fishing trawler. * Photo: Trinity Sailing

Activities & Entertainment

Participate in sailing during the passage to the next destination; go ashore on walks and hikes and general explorations along the shoreline, to beaches and into villages. Perhaps enjoy an evening BBQ ashore and a few hours of sailing after dark. Scheduled theme cruises: art, music, birdwatching, wildlife, family.

Consider a charter of a vessel and establish your own special interests.

Special Notes

The British Isles and coastal France have fickle weather and often cool temperatures when at sea so come prepared for all types of conditions that may also involve changes in the itinerary when the weather dictates. The website also introduces the foundations work and the once huge importance of the Brixham fishing trawler to the country’s economy.

Trinity Sailing

Dolphins leaping for joy alongside Trinity Sailing’s historic Brixham trawler. * Photo: Trinity Sailing

Along the Same Lines

This is a unique sailing experience in Britain’s coastal waters from the Channel Islands in the south to Scotland up north.


Trinity Sailing, The Sail Loft, Pump Street, Brixham TQ5 8ED UK; +44 (0) 1803 88 33 55;


🚃 🚃 AND be sure to read Ted’s related article, “A Chance Meeting on a Scottish Train” HERE, about how Ted first discovered Trinity Sailing!   🚃 🚃



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Scottish Train

By Ted Scull.

In early June at the end of a 10-day visit to Scotland, my wife and I boarded the morning train from Oban to Glasgow, the first of two train journeys down to London. We occupied a pair of assigned seats facing each other while next to me was an Englishman who said he was bound for Brixham on Devon’s South Coast.

I knew Brixham, an important fishing port, as one of my oldest friends grew up there and recently his wife had her ashes cast into the sea nearby.

The man seated to me introduced himself as Toni Knights, a skipper aboard an historic Brixham sail-powered fishing trawler outfitted to take a handful of cruise passengers for a firm called Trinity Sailing. In winter, to make ends meet, he is a commercial fisherman working on a modern diesel-powered fishing boat based in Brixham.

Scottish Train

Ted meets Toni. * Photo: Suellyn Scull

Toni’s just completed trip was skippering the Leader, a two-masted, wooden-hulled Brixham trawler, built way back in 1892, from Falmouth in Cornwall around Lands End and up through the Irish Sea to Oban on the West Coast of Scotland where she would be based for two months for cruises to the Western Isles.

He then opened his computer and showed me a video of his handsome ship under way using all eight sails and taking up to 12 passengers and a crew of six. The firm’s fleet of three sailing trawlers is based in ports largely on England’s South Coast and available for overnight cruises from short getaways on up to a week or more.

Toni then opened an envelope and shared with me a lovely set of watercolors he had painted showing the fleet and the waters through which they sailed. He sells his work to the passengers as a memento of their cruise. On the sailing schedule are cruises offering art classes under his supervision for those interested in painting landscapes, seascapes, bird and animal life.


Scottish Train

A Brixham trawler by Toni Kinghts

Most intrigued, I shared my connection to QuirkyCruise, and we started talking business while the two-car Scotrail train wound its way through the beautiful Scottish Highlands.

Thanks to Ted’s chance meeting of Toni, QuirkyCruise has added a review of Trinity Sailing to our roster of small ship cruises. Have a gander as it looks to be great fun if seeking a genuine sailing experience on an historic vessel and happily, not at all expensive.


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